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hotel jerez

Penultimate evening in Jerez and we were a bit of a loss about what to do because, frankly, after two full-on days at Vinoble we were shattered. Then I remembered that Mary and I had been trying to find a time to meet up so, on the chance that she might be up for a last minute invite for cava in the María Luisa Hotel gardens I got in touch and she popped right over. Well kind of. First she went to our previous hotel because she hadn’t realised we’d changed (and I stupidly hadn’t reminded her) and then she made her way back to our hotel that is actually two minutes from her house (!!!). What a mess. Anyhow… it all worked out in the end. Phew.

mary joplin

I’ve known Mary on Twitter for years, at least ten or maybe more, but this was the first time we’d met in person. And it was lovely, she was lovely, and we spent a very enjoyable time sipping cava and chatting out in the garden. I really hope to see her again soon, possibly in Sevilla. As dusk settled in (THAT blue above) Mary gave us a recommendation for a nearby bar to stop in for a late snack (we didn’t want a full meal) and so off we went to Tabanco El Anticuerio. Honestly I would have passed this place without a second look (and I’m sure I have done many times) because it is so unassuming from the outside, and well, also on the inside. Simple and traditional. I was hooked. We went in. And as we were sitting in the tiny bar (there’s also outdoor seating) a guy came up to me and said “you don’t remember me, do you?”. And as this was true I said… “please remind me?” and he said… “it’s Jon!”

jon

Omg I leapt right out of my chair saying something dignified and charming like…”fuck off! JON??? Are you kidding me? It’s you!” and gave him the biggest hug. Let me be clear, I have met the man once. Well, twice if you count this second visit to his bar Taberna Basaras in Bilbao in February 2023. But I mean that was it, we chatted, I was doing research for a Decanter article and Jon was a very pleasant barman and host. But somehow he “stuck with me” and I can’t explain it.

So when I found out that last December he’d sold his iconic family-run bar and moved to Andalucía I was intrigued. But other than seeing on Instagram that he’d done a sherry masters course in Jerez and was now living in Málaga… well that was all I knew. Until now! Turns out John has opened a new restaurant called Mind in Torre del Mar (just outside Málaga city) and it looks amazing. And so does he. I think the reason I didn’t recognise him was that he just seems so much more relaxed and happy. Well, sunshine will do that to you. But what a wonderful and unexpected encounter. Totally made my week.

But back to Tabanco El Anticuerio. This is just the kind of place I love. Traditional, unpretentious, friendly… and some great food. Got into a long chat with owner Juan Antonio and it felt like I was at home. Just to say that this entire evening was thanks to Mary meeting up last minute and telling me about Anticuerio, which led to me seeing Jon, who doesn’t even live in Jerez… I mean how random is all of that? I’m still smiling. Thanks Mary!

tabanco el antecuerio