I can’t remember the last time I saw Michelle and Chris (they can’t remember either) but we reckon it was during a visit to Málaga (they live in Estepona) when we had cocktails on a rooftop bar and were entertained by a bullfighter strutting around naked in his hotel room, curtains wide open (he knew what he was doing). Last night we were also entertained by bullfighters, but fully dressed this time, when we stopped for a nightcap at the Hotel Colón on the way home.
But before that we had met up at Cafetería Donald and spent the evening catching up and just enjoying each others company, along with some lovely tapas and wine. Good times.
La Gloria: gallo frito with parsley mayo; meatballs in amontillado sauce; tomatoes in basil olive oil, chicharrones; leeks in foie sauce with grated parmesan
Day 3. Eating well in Jerez is actually pretty easy. There are lots of great places, from tiny bars to michelin stars, but it’s always a treat to discover new places to enjoy. Thanks to my pal Reggie we ended up for our final lunch at La Gloria Taberna, so I’m going to start with that one first. It’s a small taberna run by two friends, with a short menu of “traditional with a twist” tapas. And wow, what a wine list. While the three of us were eating Reggie and I noticed a couple sitting at the next table over who had been ordering some pretty interesting looking wines (so far 3 bottles between them) so on the way out stopped to talk to them… and they ended up sharing some of their wines with us! Turns out they are total wine geeks living in Madrid. Then I met the owners and the team, took some photos and we were off.. I already want to go back
Las Bandarillas: tuna al ajillo; bechamel prawns; chocos fritos; grilled pork mollejas (sweetbreads)
Day 1 lunch was at Las Bandarillas. After checking in at the hotel we were about to head to Vinoble and then I heard from Reggie that it was only opening at 5 pm for the evening session. First time in my experience they didn’t have a morning session on the first day, but thank goodness for Reggie because after hobbling to the hotel from the station (massive queue for taxis) I was already exhausted so going all the way to the Alcázar in the HEAT only to find it shut would’ve been too much. So we decided to have an early lunch at my favourite tabanco Las Bandarillas. And as luck would have it when we walked in there was a spot for two at the bar. Heaven.
Ajé Bar: gildas matrimonios;grilled eggplant with beet sauce, payoyo cheese and pistachios; presa meatballs in mushroom sauce with white prawns
That evening after Vinoble were weren’t all that hungry but needed a little something, so we made our way to another new spot I’d hear about – Ajé Bar. Run by a young couple, the bar inside is tiny and the “kitchen” even tinier (there is also seating out in the square). In fact, you wouldn’t call it a proper kitchen, more of a small prep area. But they turn out some interesting dishes and, again, a crazy good wine list (is this a new trend?).
A Mar Restaurante : bacalao and leek revuelto, chocos fritos, grilled tuna belly, gambas al ajillo
Day 2. Finding a good lunch spot during Vinoble, especially one near the Alcázar, is almost impossible if you haven’t booked in advance. We were lucky to find the last two available seats in the bar area of A Mar. And as always, both food and service was perfect. I even ended up chatting with the people on either side of us, so that made it a bit more fun. One of the pluses of sitting at the bar.
sherry & flamenco at Tabanco El Pasaje boquerones en vinagre, tuna chicharrones at Abacería Cruz Vieja
That evening we only wanted a snack but first stopped into Tabanco El Pasaje for a bit of fino and flamenco. I actually hadn’t been there in ages so it was nice to be back. Then we wandered back towards the hotel and stopped for a couple of tapas at Abacería Cruz Vieja, where fellow Gastro Guía (from Córdoba) Isa met us for a drink. I knew she had been at Vinoble but we hadn’t seen each other there, so it was nice to finally meet her in person.
Three days, three lunches, two evening snacks. All good. And while it may seem like it was a lot of everything, I also hobbled my ass off. Day 1 – 11,000 hobbles, Day 2 – 9,000 hobbles and Day 3 – 8,500. Plus being on my feet most of the time at Vinoble. It was exhausting and very painful but I’m so glad I went. Hopefully by the time Vinoble 2028 comes round I’ll have my new knee.
The last time I was in Jerez for Vinoble in 2024 I stayed at two different hotels as I had won a night at 5 star GL Casa Palacio María Luisa in a raffle draw but of course couldn’t afford to stay another night there on my own dime. Then I happened upon Boutique Palacio Corredera and booked them (actually for the first night) and, if I’m totally honest, I actually preferred that stay over the luxe experience. So this time, going back for two nights again, I knew this was where I wanted to stay. Only problem? Their standard double rooms only come with double beds and, while Peter and I are good friends and all, separate beds are preferable. But we decided that, for the price, we could spend a couple of nights bunking down in the same bed.
Turns out we didn’t have to worry because they also have suites there and, as I had requested two beds and they had a suite available, we got an upgrade. And holy moly… what an upgrade! I can’t post vids here but you can see the instagram ones I made when we checked in (there are two because it was a duplex room and part 2 is for upstairs). If you look at the photo you can see the suite was actually the two top floors of the second building on the left. Wow.
Not only was the suite gorgeous (with our own private lift!) but the hotel is also so comfy. There’s a little coffee room where you can go any time of the day and help yourself to a coffee or some chilled water. And if you’re not lucky enough to have your own private terrace (which I only discovered off the upstairs bedroom on the second day) here’s also a lovely open air patio downstairs and several sitting rooms if you don’t want to be in your room. Cannot recommend this place enough
casa azahar 