
IYKYN
photo: Sultan Trianero
09 Monday Dec 2024

IYKYN
photo: Sultan Trianero
03 Thursday Oct 2024


So this is happening. And I’m furious about it. Yet another move to make Sevilla more “tourist friendly” at the expense of its residents. The plan is to pedestrianise a main downtown strip that runs from the Plaza del Duque to The Setas (aka Metropol Parasol). No doubt the idea is to install more hotels, chain bars and restaurants and have their terraza tables spilling out into the street. BUT… this also means 5 major bus routes that now finish in Plaza del Duque are going to be rerouted to “turn around” either in the Alameda or in Plaza Ponce de León.
On the maps (above) Plaza del Duque is the white square on the left. From there you can see how far reaching these two bus routes are – the 27 and 32. They go WAY OUT THERE to the suburbs and those buses are always packed, every day, all day long. The 32 also connects the centre to the FUCKING TRAIN STATION. What are they thinking? Oh wait, tourists can take taxis.
For this rant I am gong to focus on the two routes being shifted to Plaza Ponce de León because those are the ones I use the most (but in spirit I am with the 13 & 14 heading north). And when I say they are packed all day a large number of the people on these buses are elderly, mobility challenged, etc… people coming into the centre to shop, have lunch, enjoy a day in town, you know, BE in their city. Not to mention workers coming in to the various shops, restaurants, hotels, etc. who have to be here.
Now if you look at the map below it maybe doesn’t seem like a big deal, moving the “turn around” point from the square on the left (Plaza del Duque) to the arrow on the right (Plaza Ponce de León). But that is in fact at least a fifteen minute walk. For a young fit healthy person, maybe it’s 11 or 12. For me right now with knee issues it would be half an hour. So right now I am identifying with and really feeling what this would mean for all the elderly people that I always see on this bus. For them it could mean that they would no longer be able to access the centre OF THEIR OWN CITY. In order to give more access to tourists.

A couple of years ago a similar thing happened with three main bus routes from the centre to Triana, and this has resulted in many people no longer being able to get into the centre of their own city. Why? Because a five star hotel was installed in the Plaza de Magdalena and it has been turned into their playground, no more nasty buses turning around in the square… now the buses stop further down towards the river, again too far for people with mobility issues to manage. We are losing our city and our culture day by day. Soon all that will be left are gormless tourists walking around thinking they are having an AUTHENTIC EXPERIENCE because they are staying in our homes, going to our bars (where locals no longer go) and basically just enjoying the architecture. People just don’t get it… if there are no neighbours then it’s not a neighbourhood.
18 Wednesday Sep 2024

After its poignant “summer holiday” cover last July The Sevillaner is back with more on the effects of over tourism in our city. The Giraldilla is a gigantic sculpture at the top of the Giralda Tower that also functions as a weather vane. It represents a pregnant woman dressed in a long tunic and with a helmet surrounded by a crown. In one of her hands she holds a palm and in the other a warrior’s shield attached to a lance with a Christian cross on top. In the other hand, the palm in her left hand symbolizes victory, since the Giraldilla also represents the triumph of the Catholic religion over the Muslim world.
The Giraldilla symbolizes Christian Faith and Hope, a feature that is evident in the uncarved pupils and the fact of being pregnant. Her clothing and the elements of war also symbolize strength. For the same reason it was placed on the highest point of the Cathedral of Sevilla, built on the old mosque; specifically on the old minaret, reaffirming the message.
On this month’s cover we see a dejected Giraldilla sitting on a pile of suitcases, better described by the artist below…
Credit: Tavo Studio
Creative Director: Tavo Ponce
Designer: Pablo Travasos
I imagined a Giraldilla that is still pregnant with hope, but without the shield that serves as a weather vane for a city that seems to have given up and wanders aimlessly. That still clings to the palm leaf as a symbol of an imagined victory of a Sevilla that has no other triumph than to continue being in love with itself. That watches generations go by drunk with love, nostalgia and melancholy, accommodated in that eternal sensation of the Sevillas we have lost. And that, now, is forced to find a seat among the checked luggage of the tourists who invade it en masse, along with that of the young people who have to leave like swallows.

20 Thursday Jun 2024

This fountain was first installed in the Plaza de la Encarnación in 1720 and later restored in 2018, repairing cracks plus replacing the water pipes and also the top part of the shaft (above the little figurines) that had mysteriously gone missing over the years. There had been some talk of moving it to a different square because it was thought to “clash” with the Parasols (Setas) but happily this didn’t happen because this location is close to home and so I get to see it a lot. I like the contrast and, now that the plaza has been robbed of its gorgeous ficus trees, this beautiful fountain offers at least the illusion of cool freshness.
31 Friday May 2024
Posted in culture, events, gastronomy, sevilla

This is the second Caracolia – aka Sevilla Snail Festival – with 13 bars from Sevilla city and province participating serving up both caracoles and cabrillas. The former are a smaller snail cooked in spicy broth, cabrillas are bigger and usually cooked in a cuminy tomato sauce. It’s a fun event and lovely that it’s down by the river to catch a cool post-dusk breeze. We had a great time and even caught a spectacular sunset on the way home.


