Category Archives: sevilla

josé pérez conde

19 Thursday Sep 2019

Posted by in art, sevilla, spain

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For years I have walked past this man’s window and peered in without trying to be obvious. Even though I reckoned that if he didn’t want people looking in he would close the window (or at least the curtains) but I still didn’t want to be caught out. I mean, most people enjoy peering into open windows and getting a “slice of life” moment from someone else’s life. But this man’s living room is packed full of his artwork, including paintings and sculptures. Most arresting is the massive statue of Jesus in one corner (for awhile it was a Virgin Mary) that dominates the room, and it’s a curious sight to see him casually sitting in his armchair watching TV while passersby stop to have a look.

Anyhow, while I was out walking around with my memories the other day I passed by his house and saw him standing in front of the open window having a cigarette, and for some reason I decided it was time to say hello. And I’m so glad I did! What a lovely man. José Pérez Conde comes from Alosno, a small village in Huelva, and is a renowned painter and sculptor (until then I had no idea he actually MADE the giant virgin and christ figures). We had a nice chat and he told me a bit about himself and his work and, when he found out I was from Canada, he switched to English, taking me totally by surprise. And so now I know a new neighbour and it feels good to be able to greet José now when I walk past.

kiko veneno

18 Wednesday Sep 2019

Posted by in music, sevilla

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Kiko Veneno has been part of my Sevilla soundtrack since I first arrived here and last night I got to see him perform at the gorgeous Lope de Vega Theatre. Some of the old songs took me back to younger days… and then I realised something. That as nice as some of those old times were, I think these are now my best times. Well, fat old body and stiff knees aside. I’m actually more ME than I have ever been, I’m doing work that I love, and most days I almost like myself. So thanks for the memories, Kiko, but I think I’ll stay here in the present. It was a fun concert in fab surroundings, and on the way home I stopped for a tapita at Bodeguita Romero, chatting with everyone there. Yep, this is my town.

anniversary lunch at la cochera

17 Tuesday Sep 2019

Posted by in andalucia, food & drink, friends, restaurants, sevilla

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Part of the “problem” with having a birthday or anniversary fall on a Monday is that a lot of my favourite bars and restaurants are closed that day. I mean, I didn’t do too badly yesterday, hitting up 6 bars (2 on my own, 4 with my friend Corinna) but I had been hoping for a proper celebratory lunch. And then the lovely Cinta got in touch and invited me for an anniversary lunch today at her bistro La Cochera del Abuelo. So I thought what the hell, if I can have Birthday Week (or Month) then I could also do Anniversary Week. Plus I had bought a ticket for a Kiko Veneno concert at the gorgeous Lope de Vega theatre tonight, so all in all it seemed like a perfect day.

When Cinta joined forces with chef Bosco Benitez Ruíz del Pozo earlier this year, La Cochera went from being an events venue to a restaurant offering set tasting menus four evenings a week. A more recent change saw La Cochera grow into being a full-time restaurant with a bistro menu, which I have been wanting to try.

Everything was fabulous, as you can see, and it really was a perfect place to continue celebrating. Last year I had talked with Cinta about booking La Cochera to host a 25th anniversary party, but then things got busy and I didn’t get it organised in time. So I think I’ll wait now and – fingers crossed! – celebrate my 30th anniversary here.

Off to the concert soon! More on that tomorrow.

my 26th sevilla anniversary!

16 Monday Sep 2019

Posted by in sevilla

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I’m never sure WHICH anniversary I should celebrate. When I first arrived in Spain (end of May 1992) or the day I arrived in Sevilla (today in 1993). Thing is, I can’t remember the exact day I arrived in Spain (that passport has gone missing), but I remember not just the date but the time (8 pm) I arrived in Sevilla. Possibly the longest day of my life, driving down from Salamanca with a friend, car packed full of boxes and two screaming cats (Lua and baby Sunny). And then having to wait in the car for three hours after arriving because the landlord was late, finally moving everything up three flights of stairs at 11 o’clock. Phew.

I had no real plans for the day (though a nice anniversary lunch and an evening concert are on tomorrow’s agenda) so I started off with a nice glass of manzanilla at Manolo Cateca and then simply wandered around Sevilla with my memories for a couple of hours. Then my friend Corinna met up with me at Casa Morales and we had a couple of penúltimas together before finishing with some early evening tapas. I was supposed to meet another friend for drinks later on, but after six bars (2 on my own, 4 with Corinna) I figured I’d had quite enough fun for one day. Good times.

plating 101

14 Saturday Sep 2019

Posted by in sevilla, spain, tapas, tapas bars, tapas tours, triana

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This is seriously my favourite plating of a tapa in Sevilla, and I mean that sincerely. Simply for the not giving even one fuck attitude. It is what it is (a delicious marinated deep-fried quail), totally no frills and about as far away from pretentious as you can get. No sauce swooshes, no micro herbs tweezered on top (and they don’t charge for the bread). This is Casa Ruperto, a classic bar in Triana that has been serving up the best damn fried quail since the 60s, quickly and efficiently and with a smile. Basically an antidote to wanky gastrobars, to be taken whenever it feels necessary. You can also visit it on my Tasting Triana Tour.