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Category Archives: spain

summer hot spot

18 Tuesday Jun 2024

Posted by azahar in sevilla, spain, tourism, travel

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

overtourism, sevilla, spain, tourism

summer passion

No words…

Okay I take that back. Plenty of words, beginning with WHAT THE ACTUAL FUCK?? This is the latest campaign from Sevilla City Office in cahoots with City Council called #PASSIONFORSUMMER… promoting Sevilla as a summer hot spot. And well, it actually is, but not in the way they are presenting it.

Can I tell you? Sevilla is NOT a place you want to be between June and September. It just is not. Back when I first moved here (1993) the no-go period was always July & August. Thanks to climate change this now includes June and the first half of September, when you can expect temps of 40ºC or more. Relentless scorching heat that makes it actually unhealthy to be outdoors for any length of time – last year was brutal. And it’s dangerous. For years visitors on my tapas tours have asked me how I cope with the HEAT here in summer and my answer is… I STAY HOME. Heck, I don’t even offer tours in August.

The problem is that since the massive mass-tourism reboot here (after covid lockdown) things have gone from already very bad to way out of control. The City is boasting that last year saw more tourists visiting Sevilla than ever before (some obscene amount, I can’t remember, 35 million?) and that this year they want even more!!! New hotels are going up at breakneck speed and neighbourhoods continue to be decimated by the ravages of uncontrolled tourist apartments. Local shopkeepers and independent bar & restaurant owners are pushed out to make way for slick corporate-owned spots dressed up to look “authentic” offering a watered-down “tourist friendly” version of Sevilla. You know, because god forbid you should actually feel like you’re in another country.

I just want to point out that this massive influx of tourists is not actually helping us, the people who live here. It mostly helps to fill government coffers, promote foreign investment (most tourist apartments are not owned by locals) and all the employment “thanks to tourism” that you hear about… it’s all low-end jobs, poorly paid, no future. So when you come here and marvel that “everything is so cheap here!” keep in mind that it’s not cheap for us, because we don’t make your salaries.

By all means come and visit, but please be aware of what is happening here. And not just here but everywhere – over tourism has become a serious global threat to cultures and communities. For example, be aware that Andalucía, and other parts of Spain, have been suffering through a three-year drought. Yes, your hotel swimming pool will (probably) still be full and you will be allowed to take as many showers as you like and, no doubt, you’ll keep that AC blasting 24/7. But this puts huge stress not only on our limited water supply but also our infrastructure. We are well used to never wasting a drop of water but some neighbourhoods here have already been suffering power cuts. Please know this.

And yes, I know that I work with tourists on my tapas tours, but again, over tourism has not meant more work for me. My small group tours have always been in demand and the main issue I have with the plethora of new food tour companies is that they shove groups of 10 or more into *my* small intimate bars and really spoil the vibe. So no, I am not anti-tourism, just anti-mass-out-of-control-overtourism.

I’ll also go as far to say that most residents here aren’t anti-tourism per se… but we are tired of seeing our communities destroyed by corporate greed and government mismanagement. When you are seeing the protests, the demonstrations, when you see TOURISTS GO HOME spray painted on your AirBnB rental… this is not about you, the visitor. But the government is happy to play it that way and create a false Residents vs Tourists divisive issue because it takes the onus off them.

My point is… you are welcome. We love to welcome you and have you enjoy our city, our culture and all that it has to offer. But perhaps in exchange you could also do us a small favour, which is to respect our city and our culture (and I know that most of you do!). There are some ways to help out… for example, you could book independently-run hotels and make sure your holiday apartment is actually legal (those locks hanging off window bars, or anywhere with nobody there to greet you… nope). Sure, it might cost a bit more, but I kind of think we’re worth it, and so is everywhere else you will want to visit. What do you think?

carmona with the academy

17 Monday Jun 2024

Posted by azahar in academia sevillana gastronomy turismo, getaways, sevilla, spain

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academia sevilliana gastronomia turismo, carmona, sevilla

carmona 24 (4)

A day away in beautiful Carmona with the Academia Sevillana de Gastronomía y Turismo for their annual Asamblea General. First up was a meeting at City Hall where we were welcomed by the mayor of Carmona, followed by a visit to an ancient hypogeum from Roman times, discovered in 1999, next to the nearby temple of San Felipe, which we also visited.

carmona 24 (1)

carmona 24 (3)

After that it was off to the Alcázar for the general assembly, which in the end I couldn’t attend (!!!) because it was AT THE TOP of the fortress wall up three long flights of stairs (nobody had thought to tell me this in advance) so I sat it out downstairs sadly watching on my phone (zoom, no sound). Not ideal to say the least.

Then we had lunch at one of my favourite places in Carmona, Casa Curro Montoya. The last time I was there (and in Carmona) was back in 2015, when I met the owners Bernardi and Germán; the latter’s grandfather was the famed flamenco singer Curro Montoya. Anyhow, it was lovely to be back even though… MORE STAIRS. But just one flight this time. And I got to catch up with a few Academia members I hadn’t seen in a while and also get to know some others. So while it was a bit of a hit and miss experience it did leave me wanting to go back to Carmona again, hopefully soon. It really is a beautiful city and residents are rightfully proud of its long and intriguing history.

carmona 24

carmona 24 (2)owners Germán & Bernardi – Casa Curro Montoya

covid spring 2024

05 Wednesday Jun 2024

Posted by azahar in coronavirus, covid, health, health & happiness, spain

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

coronavirus, covid, spain

covid spring 2024

This article mostly focuses on the province of Córdoba (an hour’s drive from Sevilla) but the gist of it is that the increase in respiratory conditions in the province is because Spain is experiencing a new epidemic wave of Covid. The incidence of Flu and RSV is zero. In other words, all respiratory illnesses happening now are Covid.

Meanwhile there are people coughing all over the place (in June!), others complaining about their “allergies” starting sooner or being harsher than before, and others having sudden “mystery fevers” that leave them in bed for a couple of days. Two weeks ago I was hit with a gastro bug that left me bedridden for 24 hours and then very weak afterwards. And yes of course I tested for Covid because… why the fuck not? Covid can hit other parts of you because it ISN’T PRIMARILY A RESPIRATORY ILLNESS. It’s actually a virus that attacks your immune system and your organs and can leave you totally fucked, even if your symptoms during infection were “mild”. I think the best trick the devil ever pulled was convincing people that Covid is no longer a global health threat.

People requesting my tapas tours are told that I am only offering tours to those who are fully vaccinated and boosted (last available booster). For the most part the response to that has been very positive with people telling me they are really happy to know I am taking precautions. Have had a couple of deniers send me a lecture on how I’m living my life wrong, but you know, fuck them.

BUT I have noticed it is getting more difficult. There’s a bit more push back these days about wearing masks, about even talking about Covid, and I can see that this is probably going to escalate as the world keeps pretending we are “post pandemic”. ALSO… just to point out that almost every article I see on Covid these days shows a photo like the one above of a sad and dirty surgical mask trampled in the street… as in we should all just give up and die already. Because the other greatest trick the devil ever pulled was convincing people that Covid is only harmful to the “vulnerable” creating an US AND THEM mentality with “healthy” people thinking they are immune. Well guess what motherfuckers… you are ALL vulnerable. You just haven’t found out yet. Have a great day.

chaiwat pilanun

04 Tuesday Jun 2024

Posted by azahar in art, sevilla, spain, tapas bars

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art, bars, sevilla

Chaiwat Pilanun

My friend Victor sent me this lovely pic overnight on whatsapp (he’s travelling in the US atm, this is why I always turn the sound off on my phone when I go to bed). But how fabulous is this? The view is from my Happy Place at the bar in Las Teresas, in front of the jamón cutting station. I have posted countless photos of this very scene over the years. So I asked Victor where he’d seen this and he said “on Twitter” but then couldn’t find the post again. I tried googling the signature and even searched the image… nada.

So it was time to ask social media… I put up the pic on Twitter, Bluesky and Instagram asking if anyone knew who the artist was and – in a very surprising turn of events – Bluesky won! My pal Rob came through with this…

chaiwat

Two-Time Cancer Survivor and Husband
Give Back as Blood Donor Team

So wow. Not only an artist and husband to a fellow cancer survivor but, really, one helluva guy with an interesting background story. What I’d really love to know is when he was here in Sevilla and how he ended up in my Happy Place and THEN felt so moved by it that he decided to create this. Meanwhile, kudos to my Bluesky buds… I wish more of you were there. It’s a bit like how Twitter used to be.

 

ishay & tuanni

30 Thursday May 2024

Posted by azahar in food & drink, friends, gastronomy, sevilla, spain, tapas, tapas tours

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Tags

cape town, friends, gastronomy, sevilla, spain

ishay (1)

What a lovely surprise to see Ishay again after… 9 years! Last time we were together was in London as part of a Foodie Hub global meet up. Ishay got in touch while I was in Jerez to say she’d be in town for a couple of days with her friend Tuanni and so last night they joined me on a tapas tour with a lovely couple from Australia. We had a great time and it was lovely to her again and catch up. Our last meal together (below) at Kitty Fisher’s in London.

ishay (2)

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