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Tag Archives: culture

halloween 2025

31 Friday Oct 2025

Posted by azahar in art, culture

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art, culture, halloween

Spotted on Bluesky… this intaglio depicts a skeleton resting on an amphora and holding a jug. Such representations were intended to remind to enjoy life to the fullest since pleasure ends irrevocably with death. Happy Halloween!

Photo: Museum August Kestner/Christian Tepper

uncovered

02 Tuesday Sep 2025

Posted by azahar in culture, sevilla, spain

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architecture, culture, sevilla

The Antigua lglesia de San Hermenegildo, closed since 2006, has been hidden under scaffolding and a protective metal roof for the past two years or so while a major restoration was carried out. Hobbling by today the fresh white façade against that bright blue sky totally caught my eye. Nice to see it back. Apparently it will be an cultural centre now… we shall see.

connectivity

03 Thursday Oct 2024

Posted by azahar in culture, sevilla, tourism

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culture, sevilla, tourism, tourists

bus routes plaza duque (1)

bus routes plaza duque (2)

So this is happening. And I’m furious about it. Yet another move to make Sevilla more “tourist friendly” at the expense of its residents. The plan is to pedestrianise a main downtown strip that runs from the Plaza del Duque to The Setas (aka Metropol Parasol). No doubt the idea is to install more hotels, chain bars and restaurants and have their terraza tables spilling out into the street. BUT… this also means  5 major bus routes that now finish in Plaza del Duque are going to be rerouted to “turn around” either in the Alameda or in Plaza Ponce de León.

On the maps (above) Plaza del Duque is the white square on the left. From there you can see how far reaching these two bus routes are – the 27 and 32. They go WAY OUT THERE to the suburbs and those buses are always packed, every day, all day long. The 32 also connects the centre to the FUCKING TRAIN STATION. What are they thinking? Oh wait, tourists can take taxis.

For this rant I am gong to focus on the two routes being shifted to Plaza Ponce de León because those are the ones I use the most (but in spirit I am with the 13 & 14 heading north). And when I say they are packed all day a large number of the people on these buses are elderly, mobility challenged, etc… people coming into the centre to shop, have lunch, enjoy a day in town, you know, BE in their city. Not to mention workers coming in to the various shops, restaurants, hotels, etc. who have to be here.

Now if you look at the map below it maybe doesn’t seem like a big deal, moving the “turn around” point from the square on the left (Plaza del Duque) to the arrow on the right (Plaza Ponce de León). But that is in fact at least a fifteen minute walk. For a young fit healthy person, maybe it’s 11 or 12. For me right now with knee issues it would be half an hour. So right now I am identifying with and really feeling what this would mean for all the elderly people that I always see on this bus. For them it could mean that they would no longer be able to access the centre OF THEIR OWN CITY. In order to give more access to tourists.

bus routes duque

A couple of years ago a similar thing happened with three main bus routes from the centre to Triana, and this has resulted in many people no longer being able to get into the centre of their own city. Why? Because a five star hotel was installed in the Plaza de Magdalena and it has been turned into their playground, no more nasty buses turning around in the square… now the buses stop further down towards the river, again too far for people with mobility issues to manage. We are losing our city and our culture day by day. Soon all that will be left are gormless tourists walking around thinking they are having an AUTHENTIC EXPERIENCE because they are staying in our homes, going to our bars (where locals no longer go) and basically just enjoying the architecture. People just don’t get it… if there are no neighbours then it’s not a neighbourhood.

casual racism

08 Monday Jan 2024

Posted by azahar in culture, spain, welcome

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culture, racism, spain

three kings

You all know how much I love living in Spain. I love the country, the people (well, mostly), the culture, the food and wine, the pretty much everything… except the bit about it being so casually racist. To the point where almost nobody will admit to it. And every  year this becomes glaringly apparent during the festival of Los Reyes Magos – The Three Kings – on January 6th. This is traditionally when kids receive their presents over the holidays, just as the baby Jesus received gifts from the three wise men. On January 5th there are massive parades everywhere with floats and lights and music, culminating with the final float of the Kings. WITH BALTHAZAR INEVITABLY WEARING BLACK FACE.

Above you can see the usual depictions… Gaspar from India, Balthazar from Arabia and Melchior from Persia. Their gifts had special symbolic meanings: gold signified Jesus’ status as “King of the Jews;” frankincense represented the infant’s divinity and identity as the Son of God; and myrrh touched upon Jesus’ mortality. So far so good. EXCEPT that during the cabalgatas (parades) and other festivities Balthazar is always a white guy in black face. And somehow most Spanish people see absolutely no problem with this. Just like the people running the new 5 star hotel in Triana see nothing wrong with keeping racist tiles on their building. Why? Because IT’S TRADITION.

This caused a bit of a stir over the weekend on Twitter with both Spanish natives and non-Spanish residents (including me) posting comments and/or photos of black face Balthazars all over Spain. Mostly us non-Spanish were met with “go back to your own country” (those were the polite replies) as if somehow after 32 years I don’t understand Spanish culture. I’ve probably lived here longer than some of these commenters have been alive. Meanwhile, the thing about traditions is that they can evolve like anything else, otherwise we’d still be burning non-Christians on the stake here. I mean if Spain can embrace Santa Claus, Halloween and fucking Black Friday then I think there’s some wiggle room for removing racist “traditions” such as this. Of course, the obvious solution would be to just get a black guy to be Balthazar in the processions… except… there aren’t any. Or at least not many who are allowed to assimilate here in any meaningful way. And that is also racism, but you know what they say… the first step to solving a problem is admitting it exists. ✌️

la plaza de santa marta

30 Monday Oct 2023

Posted by azahar in art, culture, sevilla

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art, culture, sevilla

santa marta (1)

Hearing about this made me feel sick and sad and, yes, fucking angry. A week or so ago a 16th century sculpture in a tiny hidden away square next to the Cathedral was brutally vandalised. After existing in this tiny spot for centuries some fucking asshole (or assholes) thought this was the thing to do. Now… not placing blame on the recent influx of less than desirable tourists in our fair city, or the hoards or football fans from abroad who were in town for two big matches that weekend… but it’s also hard not to.

Meanwhile, this was lovely. Someone put up a floral cross as a memorial while the original one is being restored. That’s the real Sevilla.

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