
It’s officially summer. ☀️💙
21 Friday Jun 2024
20 Thursday Jun 2024

This fountain was first installed in the Plaza de la Encarnación in 1720 and later restored in 2018, repairing cracks plus replacing the water pipes and also the top part of the shaft (above the little figurines) that had mysteriously gone missing over the years. There had been some talk of moving it to a different square because it was thought to “clash” with the Parasols (Setas) but happily this didn’t happen because this location is close to home and so I get to see it a lot. I like the contrast and, now that the plaza has been robbed of its gorgeous ficus trees, this beautiful fountain offers at least the illusion of cool freshness.
19 Wednesday Jun 2024
18 Tuesday Jun 2024
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No words…
Okay I take that back. Plenty of words, beginning with WHAT THE ACTUAL FUCK?? This is the latest campaign from Sevilla City Office in cahoots with City Council called #PASSIONFORSUMMER… promoting Sevilla as a summer hot spot. And well, it actually is, but not in the way they are presenting it.
Can I tell you? Sevilla is NOT a place you want to be between June and September. It just is not. Back when I first moved here (1993) the no-go period was always July & August. Thanks to climate change this now includes June and the first half of September, when you can expect temps of 40ºC or more. Relentless scorching heat that makes it actually unhealthy to be outdoors for any length of time – last year was brutal. And it’s dangerous. For years visitors on my tapas tours have asked me how I cope with the HEAT here in summer and my answer is… I STAY HOME. Heck, I don’t even offer tours in August.
The problem is that since the massive mass-tourism reboot here (after covid lockdown) things have gone from already very bad to way out of control. The City is boasting that last year saw more tourists visiting Sevilla than ever before (some obscene amount, I can’t remember, 35 million?) and that this year they want even more!!! New hotels are going up at breakneck speed and neighbourhoods continue to be decimated by the ravages of uncontrolled tourist apartments. Local shopkeepers and independent bar & restaurant owners are pushed out to make way for slick corporate-owned spots dressed up to look “authentic” offering a watered-down “tourist friendly” version of Sevilla. You know, because god forbid you should actually feel like you’re in another country.
I just want to point out that this massive influx of tourists is not actually helping us, the people who live here. It mostly helps to fill government coffers, promote foreign investment (most tourist apartments are not owned by locals) and all the employment “thanks to tourism” that you hear about… it’s all low-end jobs, poorly paid, no future. So when you come here and marvel that “everything is so cheap here!” keep in mind that it’s not cheap for us, because we don’t make your salaries.
By all means come and visit, but please be aware of what is happening here. And not just here but everywhere – over tourism has become a serious global threat to cultures and communities. For example, be aware that Andalucía, and other parts of Spain, have been suffering through a three-year drought. Yes, your hotel swimming pool will (probably) still be full and you will be allowed to take as many showers as you like and, no doubt, you’ll keep that AC blasting 24/7. But this puts huge stress not only on our limited water supply but also our infrastructure. We are well used to never wasting a drop of water but some neighbourhoods here have already been suffering power cuts. Please know this.
And yes, I know that I work with tourists on my tapas tours, but again, over tourism has not meant more work for me. My small group tours have always been in demand and the main issue I have with the plethora of new food tour companies is that they shove groups of 10 or more into *my* small intimate bars and really spoil the vibe. So no, I am not anti-tourism, just anti-mass-out-of-control-overtourism.
I’ll also go as far to say that most residents here aren’t anti-tourism per se… but we are tired of seeing our communities destroyed by corporate greed and government mismanagement. When you are seeing the protests, the demonstrations, when you see TOURISTS GO HOME spray painted on your AirBnB rental… this is not about you, the visitor. But the government is happy to play it that way and create a false Residents vs Tourists divisive issue because it takes the onus off them.
My point is… you are welcome. We love to welcome you and have you enjoy our city, our culture and all that it has to offer. But perhaps in exchange you could also do us a small favour, which is to respect our city and our culture (and I know that most of you do!). There are some ways to help out… for example, you could book independently-run hotels and make sure your holiday apartment is actually legal (those locks hanging off window bars, or anywhere with nobody there to greet you… nope). Sure, it might cost a bit more, but I kind of think we’re worth it, and so is everywhere else you will want to visit. What do you think?
17 Monday Jun 2024
Posted in academia sevillana gastronomy turismo, getaways, sevilla, spain

A day away in beautiful Carmona with the Academia Sevillana de Gastronomía y Turismo for their annual Asamblea General. First up was a meeting at City Hall where we were welcomed by the mayor of Carmona, followed by a visit to an ancient hypogeum from Roman times, discovered in 1999, next to the nearby temple of San Felipe, which we also visited.


After that it was off to the Alcázar for the general assembly, which in the end I couldn’t attend (!!!) because it was AT THE TOP of the fortress wall up three long flights of stairs (nobody had thought to tell me this in advance) so I sat it out downstairs sadly watching on my phone (zoom, no sound). Not ideal to say the least.
Then we had lunch at one of my favourite places in Carmona, Casa Curro Montoya. The last time I was there (and in Carmona) was back in 2015, when I met the owners Bernardi and Germán; the latter’s grandfather was the famed flamenco singer Curro Montoya. Anyhow, it was lovely to be back even though… MORE STAIRS. But just one flight this time. And I got to catch up with a few Academia members I hadn’t seen in a while and also get to know some others. So while it was a bit of a hit and miss experience it did leave me wanting to go back to Carmona again, hopefully soon. It really is a beautiful city and residents are rightfully proud of its long and intriguing history.

owners Germán & Bernardi – Casa Curro Montoya