When I was in Jerez we took a turn down a narrow little side street heading back to the hotel and I saw a guy walking towards us, obviously a bit down and out, and a little unsteady on his feet, but he seemed friendly enough and waved at us as he went by, and I waved back. Then we passed where I had seen him get up from, a doorway that was clearly his home. And my heart broke a little bit. The sign posted on his little stand said…
No estoy aquí por gusto, ní para que me humíllen. Sólo pido ayuda por favor. I am not here by choice, nor to be humiliated. I am simply asking for help, please.
Then I noticed a rather large book next to his bed and took a closer look… it was the 1992 edition of Curso de Vinos Españoles a classic work on wine education. And I thought, what the fuck man, you just never know do you? And then I wished he hadn’t been in such a hurry to head out because I suddenly had so many questions. I’ll have another look for him next time I’m in Jerez.
To be honest I’m not even sure if I actually like churros. They’re a bit, you know, much. But every now and then they are just the thing, usually after an early morning medical appointment. OR… when I go to Jerez. I don’t know why but I cannot go to Jerez and not stop at Manuel’s for the “minimo” and then take the paper-wrapped steaming hot churros over to Cafe Bar La Perla, where there is a long-standing agreement, and enjoy them with some coffee or fresh juice (I never have chocolate).
Located next to the central market, Churrería Manuel has been going strong for over a hundred years. And even though there is another churrería in the stand next door, the longest queue is always in front of Manuel’s. He’s only open from 8 am until noon but it’s a one-man non-stop production. And Manuel (3rd generation) is unfailingly happy and charming and chatty. It’s been my Jerez tradition for years now so I can’t stop now.
La Gloria: gallo frito with parsley mayo; meatballs in amontillado sauce; tomatoes in basil olive oil, chicharrones; leeks in foie sauce with grated parmesan
Day 3. Eating well in Jerez is actually pretty easy. There are lots of great places, from tiny bars to michelin stars, but it’s always a treat to discover new places to enjoy. Thanks to my pal Reggie we ended up for our final lunch at La Gloria Taberna, so I’m going to start with that one first. It’s a small taberna run by two friends, with a short menu of “traditional with a twist” tapas. And wow, what a wine list. While the three of us were eating Reggie and I noticed a couple sitting at the next table over who had been ordering some pretty interesting looking wines (so far 3 bottles between them) so on the way out stopped to talk to them… and they ended up sharing some of their wines with us! Turns out they are total wine geeks living in Madrid. Then I met the owners and the team, took some photos and we were off.. I already want to go back
Las Bandarillas: tuna al ajillo; bechamel prawns; chocos fritos; grilled pork mollejas (sweetbreads)
Day 1 lunch was at Las Bandarillas. After checking in at the hotel we were about to head to Vinoble and then I heard from Reggie that it was only opening at 5 pm for the evening session. First time in my experience they didn’t have a morning session on the first day, but thank goodness for Reggie because after hobbling to the hotel from the station (massive queue for taxis) I was already exhausted so going all the way to the Alcázar in the HEAT only to find it shut would’ve been too much. So we decided to have an early lunch at my favourite tabanco Las Bandarillas. And as luck would have it when we walked in there was a spot for two at the bar. Heaven.
Ajé Bar: gildas matrimonios;grilled eggplant with beet sauce, payoyo cheese and pistachios; presa meatballs in mushroom sauce with white prawns
That evening after Vinoble were weren’t all that hungry but needed a little something, so we made our way to another new spot I’d hear about – Ajé Bar. Run by a young couple, the bar inside is tiny and the “kitchen” even tinier (there is also seating out in the square). In fact, you wouldn’t call it a proper kitchen, more of a small prep area. But they turn out some interesting dishes and, again, a crazy good wine list (is this a new trend?).
A Mar Restaurante : bacalao and leek revuelto, chocos fritos, grilled tuna belly, gambas al ajillo
Day 2. Finding a good lunch spot during Vinoble, especially one near the Alcázar, is almost impossible if you haven’t booked in advance. We were lucky to find the last two available seats in the bar area of A Mar. And as always, both food and service was perfect. I even ended up chatting with the people on either side of us, so that made it a bit more fun. One of the pluses of sitting at the bar.
sherry & flamenco at Tabanco El Pasaje boquerones en vinagre, tuna chicharrones at Abacería Cruz Vieja
That evening we only wanted a snack but first stopped into Tabanco El Pasaje for a bit of fino and flamenco. I actually hadn’t been there in ages so it was nice to be back. Then we wandered back towards the hotel and stopped for a couple of tapas at Abacería Cruz Vieja, where fellow Gastro Guía (from Córdoba) Isa met us for a drink. I knew she had been at Vinoble but we hadn’t seen each other there, so it was nice to finally meet her in person.
Three days, three lunches, two evening snacks. All good. And while it may seem like it was a lot of everything, I also hobbled my ass off. Day 1 – 11,000 hobbles, Day 2 – 9,000 hobbles and Day 3 – 8,500. Plus being on my feet most of the time at Vinoble. It was exhausting and very painful but I’m so glad I went. Hopefully by the time Vinoble 2028 comes round I’ll have my new knee.
