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Category Archives: tourism

adios bar europa

11 Friday Apr 2025

Posted by azahar in history, sevilla, tapas bars, tourism

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bar europa, sevilla, tapas bars, tourist apartments

Bar Europa was one of the first bars I got to know when I first moved here over 30 years ago. It’s very sad to see it shuttered for good, making way for… you guessed it… more tourist apartments. So much history in this old bar, which recently celebrated its 100th anniversary. Though maybe this is a better end than seeing it turned into yet another zombie bar. Anyhow, am thankful for all the memories.

sònia… briefly

18 Tuesday Feb 2025

Posted by azahar in friends, sevilla, tourism, travel, triana

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sonia gruapera, travel

I love how Sònia flits in and out of my life here-and-there-and-now-and-then and it’s always so much fun. Like yesterday. Sònia was going to be in town with clients for a couple of days and I had a Sherry & Tapas booked when she arrived BUT we managed to squeeze in an hour to catch up between our appointments. I don’t know what it is about some people, but you click, enjoy each other’s company, share experiences and then it’s like… OK SEE YOU NEXT TIME.  She also has the ability of making me take a silly selfie… no mean feat.

Sònia has a great lux travel website if you want to check it out.
Sònia Graupera

shameful

27 Monday Jan 2025

Posted by azahar in home, sevilla, tourism

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sevilla, spain, tourism

In my street. Garbage left out at midday that will attract rats and roaches. Trust me, the neighbours are not responsible for this. Bins are a five minute walk away but somehow people staying in tourist apartments think they have the right to do this to us. Shameful.

connectivity

03 Thursday Oct 2024

Posted by azahar in culture, sevilla, tourism

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culture, sevilla, tourism, tourists

bus routes plaza duque (1)

bus routes plaza duque (2)

So this is happening. And I’m furious about it. Yet another move to make Sevilla more “tourist friendly” at the expense of its residents. The plan is to pedestrianise a main downtown strip that runs from the Plaza del Duque to The Setas (aka Metropol Parasol). No doubt the idea is to install more hotels, chain bars and restaurants and have their terraza tables spilling out into the street. BUT… this also means  5 major bus routes that now finish in Plaza del Duque are going to be rerouted to “turn around” either in the Alameda or in Plaza Ponce de León.

On the maps (above) Plaza del Duque is the white square on the left. From there you can see how far reaching these two bus routes are – the 27 and 32. They go WAY OUT THERE to the suburbs and those buses are always packed, every day, all day long. The 32 also connects the centre to the FUCKING TRAIN STATION. What are they thinking? Oh wait, tourists can take taxis.

For this rant I am gong to focus on the two routes being shifted to Plaza Ponce de León because those are the ones I use the most (but in spirit I am with the 13 & 14 heading north). And when I say they are packed all day a large number of the people on these buses are elderly, mobility challenged, etc… people coming into the centre to shop, have lunch, enjoy a day in town, you know, BE in their city. Not to mention workers coming in to the various shops, restaurants, hotels, etc. who have to be here.

Now if you look at the map below it maybe doesn’t seem like a big deal, moving the “turn around” point from the square on the left (Plaza del Duque) to the arrow on the right (Plaza Ponce de León). But that is in fact at least a fifteen minute walk. For a young fit healthy person, maybe it’s 11 or 12. For me right now with knee issues it would be half an hour. So right now I am identifying with and really feeling what this would mean for all the elderly people that I always see on this bus. For them it could mean that they would no longer be able to access the centre OF THEIR OWN CITY. In order to give more access to tourists.

bus routes duque

A couple of years ago a similar thing happened with three main bus routes from the centre to Triana, and this has resulted in many people no longer being able to get into the centre of their own city. Why? Because a five star hotel was installed in the Plaza de Magdalena and it has been turned into their playground, no more nasty buses turning around in the square… now the buses stop further down towards the river, again too far for people with mobility issues to manage. We are losing our city and our culture day by day. Soon all that will be left are gormless tourists walking around thinking they are having an AUTHENTIC EXPERIENCE because they are staying in our homes, going to our bars (where locals no longer go) and basically just enjoying the architecture. People just don’t get it… if there are no neighbours then it’s not a neighbourhood.

the sevillaner strikes again

18 Wednesday Sep 2024

Posted by azahar in art, culture, sevilla, tourism

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over tourism, sevilla, the sevillaner

sevillaner giralda

After its poignant “summer holiday” cover last July The Sevillaner is back with more on the effects of over tourism in our city. The Giraldilla is a gigantic sculpture at the top of the Giralda Tower that also functions as a weather vane. It represents a pregnant woman dressed in a long tunic and with a helmet surrounded by a crown. In one of her hands she holds a palm and in the other a warrior’s shield attached to a lance with a Christian cross on top. In the other hand, the palm in her left hand symbolizes victory, since the Giraldilla also represents the triumph of the Catholic religion over the Muslim world.

The Giraldilla symbolizes Christian Faith and Hope, a feature that is evident in the uncarved pupils and the fact of being pregnant. Her clothing and the elements of war also symbolize strength. For the same reason it was placed on the highest point of the Cathedral of Sevilla, built on the old mosque; specifically on the old minaret, reaffirming the message.

On this month’s cover we see a dejected Giraldilla sitting on a pile of suitcases, better described by the artist below…

Credit: Tavo Studio
Creative Director: Tavo Ponce
Designer: Pablo Travasos

I imagined a Giraldilla that is still pregnant with hope, but without the shield that serves as a weather vane for a city that seems to have given up and wanders aimlessly. That still clings to the palm leaf as a symbol of an imagined victory of a Sevilla that has no other triumph than to continue being in love with itself. That watches generations go by drunk with love, nostalgia and melancholy, accommodated in that eternal sensation of the Sevillas we have lost. And that, now, is forced to find a seat among the checked luggage of the tourists who invade it en masse, along with that of the young people who have to leave like swallows.

giraldillo

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