back at it!

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While I was away last week Tomoko stayed at my place, looking after the cats, and sending me daily photos (which I really appreciated). Then one day she sent me the two pics above saying… “um, should I stop her?”. Ha. Of course I said no, and explained that this was the reason I put curtains up in that room in the first place. So Morcilla could get back to her ninja climbing routine. Now I just need to rig up some sort of “stair replacement” for the other two.

best. meal. ever.

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It wasn’t all pintxos in San Sebastián (though really it mostly was). But I had told Gabriella @tenedor that I wanted to invite her for a nice meal while I was there in thanks for her generous hospitality. At first she recommended Elkano, just a short drive away in Getaria. But as we were making plans on the fly the whole time I was there (kind of the way I like it) in the end there was nothing available. Then Gabriella remembered Amelia, a place she had only visited once when they first opened just over a year ago. And within that time they have earned a Michelin star.

I’ve only been to two Michelin star restaurants before (1 stars, like Amelia), and was seriously underwhelmed. But Gabriella’s PA Katharine had just been to Amelia the previous evening and said it had been perfect. It was a sign.

Run by Argentinian chef Paulo Airaudo in an attractive and discreet location with  minimalist décor in the Romantica district, Amelia seats just 22 people, and there are only two tasting menus on offer. We ordered the smaller version (100€ pp), but somehow ended up with the larger one (130€ pp), not including wine. And while I could have done without the extra desserts, the star of the show (for me) was the hake with caviar and buerre blanc, which we would have missed out on with the shorter menu.

Although the Basque Country is awash with Michelin star restaurants, for the most part they are located outside either San Sebastián or Bilbao, so you’d either have to hire a car (and then not be able to drink), or a private driver. When I told Paulo that it was such a big point in his favour that he was in the centre of San Sebastián he simply said… Bingo!

It was also fun chatting with the new sommelier – a charming young man called Alex. They have a few nice sherries on the menu and it may turn out that I will meet up with Alex again one day in Jerez.

And so, here you go.
Possibly the best – definitely the most expensive – meal of my life.
Totally recommended.
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shitadvisor

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Just when you thought ol’ ShitAdvisor couldn’t get any shittier…

First they removed all contact details from everyone’s pages, and now this. A notice at the top of the pages of people not using their rip-off (25% commission) online booking service, suggesting that prospective clients use them instead. On the other hand, they have returned the contact details (must’ve been a legal issue), so people can also “book now” directly with me. But they’ve worded this new notice to make it seem like there is something WRONG with my tours because they aren’t on the TripAdvisor service. Assholes.

the dude is gone

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The Dude passed away this afternoon. Beatriz finally had to make the decision to release him from his suffering after watching him become weaker over these past two weeks, barely able to eat or walk. I’m so sorry I didn’t get the chance to see him one more time (just got home from holidays yesterday). I was planning to check in with Beatriz this week.

He was an exceptional cat who touched many people, and indeed became a bit of a “tourist attraction”. He was the cat of a hundred names. I called him The Dude because of his laid-back personality and the way he “abided” ruling over his kingdom in Barrio Santa Cruz for more than 15 years. Beatriz called him Cani due to his cinnamon colour. Together we called him Cani-Dude…

This is a photo I took of Beatriz and Cani-Dude the last time I visited. Thanks to Beatriz he didn’t die alone in the street, he passed in a loving home, knowing he was cared for. I can’t really say much more right now. Too sad. I always thought I’d see him one more time again…

back to work

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While I was away I was doing all my work via the iPhone, which of course is handy – an office in my hand! – but it’s not all that comfortable. Next trip I am going to invest in a small keyboard to use with my iPad. Anyhoodle…

Getting home and back to work on my not-so-trusty steed Sterling (more on that later) was a relief, but mostly because the cutest office assistant ever was keeping me company. I swear Morcilla hasn’t left my side since I got home.