Category Archives: getaways

galicia getaway – enbhiga day 1

15 Tuesday Oct 2019

Posted by in galicia, gastronomy, getaways, spain

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The first full day of Enbhiga 2019 started off with a 5 hour bus ride from Madrid to a tiny village in Ourense province called Seadur. We were greeted at a rustic bodega by Nacho González, owner of Bodegas La Perdida, DO Valdeorras. Along with a tasting of his natural wines there was a nice warm fire and typical regional snacks (empanadas, stews, cured meats and cheeses).

On the way to Trives we stopped off for a photo op at Ponte Bibei, a roman bridge in A Pobra de Trives. We were supposed to have a wine tasting there too, but the weather was threatening rain so we went directly to Trives, where we would be spending our first night. In the evening there were some cooking demonstrations by various local chefs and producers, followed by a wine tasting of DO Ribeira Sacra wines, and more snacks. It was there I discovered the Bica… a sort of sponge cake made with pork lard that is rich, moist and delicious with just a touch of sweetness. It is now officially my new favourite sweet treat. Later on there was a late night tour of the town planned, but I was ready for bed so I headed back to my hotel.

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madrid getaway 2019

14 Monday Oct 2019

Posted by in friends, gastronomy, getaways, madrid

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On my way to ENBHIGA 2019, starting off in Madrid. The official “cocktail party” meet up at the hotel was scheduled for 9 pm, but I came into town at midday to meet pal Andrew @undertheflor and have lunch at La Retasca, the latest venture by chef Juanjo López.

It’s always fun meeting up with Andrew, and this was a place he’d been wanting to go to as well. I left my bag at the station and walked to La Retasca, somehow missed my turn off and arrived late, which was unfortunate because Andrew was on a tight schedule. So it was short and sweet, with the company way better than the food.

Then it was back to the station to collect my bag and taxi over to the Hotel Nuevo Madrid, which was way the hell out somewhere I’d never been before. Checked in and went down to meet the group that was to be my travelling companions over the next few days. I’m so not good at group stuff, especially meet and greets. Lovely to see Jorge & Anna again of course, and also Twitter pal Rachel @R_McCormack from Scotland, but l snuck away while desserts were being served because it was going to be an early morning and long (5 hour!) bus ride to Ourense in the morning.

Rachel, Jorge, Anna, Pepe

enbhiga 2019

08 Tuesday Oct 2019

Posted by in galicia, gastronomy, getaways, spain

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Next week I’ll be back in Galicia attending ENBHIGA in the province of Ourense, roughly in the south east of Galicia. You may recall that I spent a day in and around Ourense last July when I went up to do research for a Decanter article. This time I will be part of an international and national group of 40 journalists and 10 tour operators (not sure which category I fall into… both?) who have been invited by the Ourense tourist board to get to know this lesser known part of Galicia through its gastronomy.

Last summer I visited three of the five DO wine regions in Galicia – Rías Baixas, Ribeiro, and Ribeira Sacra – so I was very excited to learn that this week-long event would be taking in the other two – Valdorras and Monterrei (whose wines have actually become the new “house wines” at Casa Azahar).

My friends and Super Fixers Anna & Jorge @guitianmayer have organised the itinerary, which is so full-on I fear for, well, something. Hopefully not my life. Perhaps my sanity? We shall see. I actually almost backed out because of the ABDOMINAL PAIN, lest I explode somewhere in the northern countryside and die of sepsis. But last time this went on for over two months without incident, so I will be popping paracetamol and hoping for the best.

Including travel days to Madrid and back the whole trip will be from Monday to Sunday. Full day itineraries Tuesday to Friday, and a half day on Saturday before being taken back to Madrid. Ufff… wish me luck!

VORS sherry cata

05 Saturday Oct 2019

Posted by in getaways, sherry, spain

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As soon as I saw this tasting was coming up I knew I had to go. These monthly sherry tastings held by the Consejo Regulador are always worth going to. Presented by a member of the Consejo and either the winemaker or owner of the bodega (this time it was both), they are also excellent value. And this one with a selection of VORS sherries (over 30 years old) from Bodegas Álvaro Domecq was exceptionally so. 

After the tasting Anne, Paul and I met up with Tomoko for lunch at Albalá. And then I hobbled back to the train station (diverticulitis!) and made my way home. I think I may have overdone things a bit and was in bed by 9 pm, but it was a great day.

totes adorbs

20 Saturday Jul 2019

Posted by in casa azahar, cats, getaways, home, Malaga

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This showed up on one of my feeds… one of those “X years ago today” things… and OMG. Look how little and sweet! She still hadn’t grown into her paws. This was the time I went to Málaga in July 2013 when Morcilla was still a baby, just over three months old, so I took her with me. I remember back then I thought she would become my regular travelling companion, but it turned out it wasn’t that easy to find accommodation that would accept cats. Oh well.