Our final Enbhiga day began with a traditional breakfast at O Souto das Candeas, one of the two restaurants in Verín run by chef Begonia Vásquez(who I’d met the previous evening). Then Begoña joined us on a visit to the Wine Museum and also for a tasting at Bodega Terra do Gargalo (owned by Spanish fashion designer Roberto Verino).

Finally we were taken to Ánades Galicia, the only producer of fois gras in the region, where we were treated to a lunch of all things ducky (“jamon”, foie, breast) and wines from Vega de Lucía. Then it was back to Madrid.

This was an amazing experience. Not only did I get to visit the two D.O. regions I had missed during my last visit to Galicia in July, I also got to see (and taste) the best of Ourense province and meet some lovely people, as well as see some old friends.

Many thanks to all the organisers, and especially to Jorge Guitian and Anna Mayer who kept our group happy and – mostly! – on time. A daunting task to say the least.
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For the chefs attending Enbhiga this was their big day, and they set off early to start prepping for the presentation of national and international dishes at the Mercado do Barrio da Ponte, just over the river. The rest of us got to take things easy in the morning and take a short tour of Ourense and a visit to the central market after checking into our hotel.

At 2 pm we all met at the Mercado da Ponte and began sampling the various dishes, along with DO Ribeiro wines. At 4 pm the venue was opened to the public and the cooking demos began. By this time I was starting to flag (after the previous late night) to I decided to just head out on my own and walk around Ourense. The rest of the group met up again in the evening for a guided visit of the old centre, followed by a tapas tour and late drinks, but after a couple of early tapitas at Casa do Pulpo I was back at my hotel and tucked up in bed by 10.30.

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During our five-day itinerary jam-packed with activities, this was our most jam-packed day. We started off with an early coffee (and bica!) break at the beautiful Castillo de Castro Caldelas. The clouds broke up long enough for us to enjoy a stunning view from the top of the castle. Then it was off to visit the San Pedro de Rocas monastery, with a quick stop on the way at the Río Sil mirador. At the monastery we were greeted by the Real Banda de Gaitas (Galician champions) for a short concert before taking a tour of the monastery.

Then it was off to Vilamarín cooking school for several food demonstrations and speeches, followed by a cocktail-style lunch provided by the school and served by the students. Then a quick stop to check into our hotel and we were off again to the village of Ribadavia. This was the only time (other than our last day) that we actually got rained on, but Ribadavia charmed everyone, as did 80-year-old Herminia, who runs a small bakery in the centre of the village where she has spent her life making Jewish pastries from age-old recipes. We also took a short tour of the Castillo de los Sarmiento and were treated to a tasting of DO Ribeiro wines at the Iglesia de A Magdalena.

This was followed by a reception and dinner at Restaurante Miguel González, located inside Hotel Rústico San Jamie just outside Ourense. Chef González had prepared a traditional pork-based meal (quite different from his usual more avant-guarde cooking) which was perfect for a cool rainy evening. Finally we arrived back at our hotel sometime after 1 am. A long but enjoyable day.

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The first full day of Enbhiga 2019 started off with a 5 hour bus ride from Madrid to a tiny village in Ourense province called Seadur. We were greeted at a rustic bodega by Nacho González, owner of Bodegas La Perdida, DO Valdeorras. Along with a tasting of his natural wines there was a nice warm fire and typical regional snacks (empanadas, stews, cured meats and cheeses).

On the way to Trives we stopped off for a photo op at Ponte Bibei, a roman bridge in A Pobra de Trives. We were supposed to have a wine tasting there too, but the weather was threatening rain so we went directly to Trives, where we would be spending our first night. In the evening there were some cooking demonstrations by various local chefs and producers, followed by a wine tasting of DO Ribeira Sacra wines, and more snacks. It was there I discovered the Bica… a sort of sponge cake made with pork lard that is rich, moist and delicious with just a touch of sweetness. It is now officially my new favourite sweet treat. Later on there was a late night tour of the town planned, but I was ready for bed so I headed back to my hotel.

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