Final day in Aracena. What, so soon? Everything had been planned so well before leaving Sevilla, but you know what they say about plans. In any case, it all started off great (after yet another overpriced meh hotel breakfast). We were picked up by Belén Reyes from Jamones Eíriz so we could visit her family’s bodega in Cortaconcepción. I was put in touch with the Eíriz family by my good friend and neighbour Mariano García (Cafetería Donald), who has been their client for over fifty years. And I was eager to visit because they are a smaller more artisanal producer, kind of the opposite end of the scale from Cinco Jotas. It turned out to be not only an interesting contrast, but also super educational. Delicious too as we were treated to a great tasting of jamón and charcuterie paired with local wines at the end. Plus I GOT TO SEE PIGGIES.

The plan for the rest of the afternoon was that Belén would drop us back at the hotel where we would be picked up by my dear friend Javi Abascal, who would then take us to visit his newest project in Fuenteheridas, a restaurant and guesthouse called Restaurante Lieva. And after lunch there Javi would take us back to Sevilla. Perfect! Except that on the way to meet us Javi’s car broke down and he spent the afternoon waiting for a tow truck and then at the garage back in Sevilla. But no problem. Belén ended up driving us to Lieva and afterwards one of Javi’s staff took us home.

This is a very special place. For one it’s huge with several charming dining rooms that have been beautifully maintained, including the fixtures and original floor tiles. And there is also a spacious terrace, perfect for events. I didn’t get to see the guest houses – next time! But you can take a look here. The menu, fitting for Sevilla’s Rey de la Cascarilla (King of Offal – sounds better in Spanish) focuses on local products, specifically with doing wondrous things to every part of the Ibérico pig. Will definitely be back for more.

We left Sevilla around 9.30 on Monday and arrived at Cinco Jotas in Jabugo shortly after 11.00, after dropping our bags at the hotel in Aracena. María Castro was there to greet us and took us on quite the VIP tour. Unlike the last couple of times I visited we were allowed into the drying and ageing areas (had to suit up first!) which was not only super interesting, it was just what I needed for my upcoming articles. After our tour María and Marco gave us a wonderful tasting of the fabulous 5J black label jamón and also some of their charcuterie, paired with sherry wines from the exquisite Osborne La Honda / Coquinera selection.

We had been invited for lunch at Finca Buenvino and I was really looking forward to seeing everyone again. Of course María knows the Chestertons (everyone in and around Aracena knows everyone else) so she dropped us off and stayed for a quick visit. And then we sat down with the family – Sam & Jeannie and sons Sam & Jago – for a wonderful home-cooked meal, with plenty of wine and lots of chat. I was enjoying myself so much I totally forgot to take any food photos, also it didn’t seem the thing to do there. Suffice to say Jeannie and her son Sam (who is taking over the reigns at Buenvino) put on an impressive spread. All too soon it was time to get back to Aracena and finally check into our hotel, so Jeannie gave us a lift over.

Turned out that we (well, me) ended up being a “prisoner” in the hotel as, after attempting to go out for an evening drink that first day at a “nearby” bar (7 mins away according to google maps, more like 30 mins for me up and down very steep cobbled streets) I knew that was it. I’d have to leave the joys of Aracena for after my knee op. Which also meant having to eat the hotel breakfast for two days… ufff.

Anyhow, for now just leaving short snippets of the Aracena Getaway here. More coming up on Bitesize Sevilla. Stay tuned.