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Category Archives: tapas

snail season 2023

19 Friday May 2023

Posted by azahar in sevilla, culture, tapas, seasons, gastronomy, tapas bars

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sevilla, snails

snail season 23

We’re about mid-way through snail season. Yes, there are bars that serve them year round but those are grown in greenhouses. These are yer proper free-range wild snails! And as you can see there are two types. The tiny caracoles and the larger plumper cabrillas. They are also prepared differently. Cabrillas are cooked in a fairly standard tomato-based cuminy sauce, but with caracoles it’s all about the broth. Every bar has their own broth recipe and they really are quite distinct. Some are garlicky, others feature various herbs, some are quite peppery, and they are often served in a small glass so that once you manage to spoon and slurp out all the caracoles you can finish by drinking the broth. As you can imagine, a bit messy to eat (especially the cabrillas) because, although you are given a toothpick to dig the little buggers out of their shells, you still have to pick them up. BUT the best way to eat them, especially the smaller caracoles, is just to pick one up, and slurp it out broth and all.

snails

amy & bill

16 Tuesday May 2023

Posted by azahar in friends, sevilla, social media, tapas, tapas bars, tapas tours

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sevilla, tapas, tapas tour

amy bill

Today I did two of my favourite things… met up in person (first time) with someone I’ve known on social media for years and went out on a Tasting Triana Tour. Amy has been a Facebook pal forever and so when she and her husband Bill made a return trip to Sevilla they decided to look me up. And omg what a fun and delicious time we had. In fact we were having so much fun that we went into overtime with a post-tour penúltima (or two) so that I ended up rolling home around 7 pm (we’d started at noon). Being younger than me (who isn’t??) they carried on. What can I say? Sometimes you just click with someone and – the most important thing of all – sense of humour in sync.

Anyhow, Amy and Bill, thank you for being amazing and for brightening my day. It was so great getting to know you both. Hope you’ll be back! xx

rick & me

09 Tuesday May 2023

Posted by azahar in sevilla, tapas, tapas bars, tapas tours, tourism, travel

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rick steves, sevilla, travel

rick shawn

I had a very special guest on Monday evening… Rick Steves was in town and, as I’ve had the honour of being mentioned in two of his Spain travel guides the past few years (recommended by his local guide writer), it was high time we met up in person. Can I tell you? Rick is a lovely guy and a total force of nature. I had no idea what to expect, whether he wanted a tapas tour or just to talk about me and what I am doing and the Sevilla tapas scene, maybe get some recommendations on other places he could add to his guide… turned out that, yep, he wanted it all! And honestly, it was so much fun. Looking back, we stopped in at 16 (!!!) tapas bars and restaurants over five hours. Not eating at all of them obviously (we only did that at two stops) but checking out the places, ambiance, menus, etc. with Rick scribbling notes as we went. It was definitely a night of heavy researching.

Our first stop to actually stop at was Casa Morales. Reyes Morales was just coming back from walking her dog and said we had to come in and have a cold beer and a tapa. And well, who were we to argue with tapas bar royalty? At the last stop of the night, Salmedina, we also stopped in to eat. Rick had tried to get in the night of the Copa del Rey match and, well, no way. But luckily not only was there a table available for us, both owner/chefs were there (usually they trade off). Jaime and Pedro welcomed us and suggested we just try whatever they wanted us to try, thus a small but exquisite tasting menu ensued. My god. Every bite was heaven. And I even got to give Rick a little sherry education.

What can I say? It was a Tapeo Extremo to beat all others, all totally spontaneous and fun. Have already warned him that next time we’re going to Triana… and now that I know what he likes, well, it’s going to be epic.

Rick, thanks again for everything. Being in your guide has been amazing and I hope to continue being a trusted source for you and your travellers.

rick me (2)

eslava – end of an era

28 Tuesday Feb 2023

Posted by azahar in change, sevilla, spain, tapas, tapas bars

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eslava, sevilla, tapas

sixto (2)

I can’t remember the first time I ever went to Eslava but it must have been something like 20-25 years ago. My first post for them on Sevilla Tapas is dated February 2008 and by then it had already become a solid favourite.

And today on the last day of February 2023 I went to see owner and long-time friend Sixto Tovar on his final day at this most beloved bar before he retires. He has handed the reins over to a couple of guys who run several bars/restaurants here and no doubt they’ll keep the business going. For me it will never be the same but I think this was a smart move and I wish Sixto and his wife Rosa all the best in their next chapter. Missing them already.

zombie bars

23 Thursday Feb 2023

Posted by azahar in sevilla, tapas, tapas bars

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covid, sevilla, spain, tapas bars

zombie bars

We’ve lost so many of our cherished tapas bars in Sevilla since Covid hit but what has been even worse is seeing some of our most emblematic ones being “resurrected” by corporate groups, keeping the same name and pretending they are the same bar thereby profiting from a past that doesn’t belong to them. It’s not only identity theft, it’s heritage theft. They are like zombie bars, only “alive” because the doors are still open, but the spirit and personality are gone. Empty shells living off someone else’s life-long work. It’s hard to watch. Especially with places I’ve known and loved for so many years.

And yes of course I understand it’s complicated, that some bar owners without family or close friends to take over have opted to sell their business intact and end up with a nice “retirement package”, and who can blame them? Not me. But I also know of cases of long-time bars where owners who didn’t own the property were forced out after lockdown because greedy landlords saw a chance to make a killing. Another bar was taken over after the owner committed suicide during lockdown because he didn’t see a way out after having to close for so long. Heartbreaking stories. Stories now glossed over, just like the bars have been with a slick reno job, a change of staff, smart new uniforms, etc. And reopening not only with the same name and concept but also claiming to have been with us “since 1897” (for example) when it was actually since 2021/22/23. THIS is the thing that irks so bad.

There are other stories of long time favourite bars closing during lockdown with those places taken over by new owners who did a reno, made changes, and reopened under their own name with a whole new concept. I mean that is how it goes, right? It’s still sad but it doesn’t feel like someone taking advantage, trying to cash in on someone else’s legacy.

I honestly feel it would be better to just see these beloved places close for good and then miss them forever rather than witness these ghoulish takeovers. These fucking zombie bars.

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