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~ my life in sevilla

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Category Archives: culture

snail season 2023

19 Friday May 2023

Posted by azahar in culture, gastronomy, seasons, sevilla, tapas, tapas bars

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sevilla, snails

snail season 23

We’re about mid-way through snail season. Yes, there are bars that serve them year round but those are grown in greenhouses. These are yer proper free-range wild snails! And as you can see there are two types. The tiny caracoles and the larger plumper cabrillas. They are also prepared differently. Cabrillas are cooked in a fairly standard tomato-based cuminy sauce, but with caracoles it’s all about the broth. Every bar has their own broth recipe and they really are quite distinct. Some are garlicky, others feature various herbs, some are quite peppery, and they are often served in a small glass so that once you manage to spoon and slurp out all the caracoles you can finish by drinking the broth. As you can imagine, a bit messy to eat (especially the cabrillas) because, although you are given a toothpick to dig the little buggers out of their shells, you still have to pick them up. BUT the best way to eat them, especially the smaller caracoles, is just to pick one up, and slurp it out broth and all.

snails

an inspiration (not an influencer)

28 Friday Apr 2023

Posted by azahar in culture, Malaga, sevilla

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

sevilla

you really like me

My goodness, what a joy it was to see this on my Twitter time line. And I mean really… wow. It’s an article called Alegría (Joy) by Braulio Ortiz from the Diario de Sevilla, and it just took my breath away. Braulio mentions me and “German in Spain” Christian Machowski as the ones who inspired him to write this article. It’s in Spanish and I think is behind a paywall so I have done a quick translation of the bit that mentions me and Christian. It’s basically about how oftentimes it takes an “outsider” to help us remember who we are.

We must preserve that trait of ours, our joy. It is the people who cling to life, who smile, who captivate us

Often a gaze directed outwards helps us to remember who we are; it returns to us, like a mirror that we bump into unexpectedly on a walk, a reflection in which we no longer stopped. With the excitement of a reunion, of a revelation perhaps, I am following two Twitter accounts with interest: those of Shawn Hennessey, a Canadian living in Seville who organizes amazing gastronomic tours, and Christian Machowski, a German who after residing in the United Kingdom for almost a quarter of a century settled in Malaga. One better appreciates the culinary heritage in its surroundings by observing the amazing tapas shared by the first: the quality of the raw material, and the creativity with which the chefs approach it, make up a comforting landscape. Machowski, for his part, photographs a beautiful Malaga that still preserves its essence, its original charm, despite the voracity with which tourism transforms it. In the images of both, a hospitable, friendly land appears, a place that invites you to stay, a picture almost at the antipodes of that bitter vision of dirty and noisy cities through which we in the south sometimes contemplate ourselves.

How fabulous is that? It will never be less than an overwhelming experience when I find myself being recognised by Spanish people as being one of their own, or at least accepted as someone of recognition based on my love of Spain. So I shall bask in the glow of this for a while. When I thanked Braulio on Twitter I told him that I’d much prefer to be an inspiration than an influencer, and Christian said that he agreed. Thanks again Braulio!

con acento andalú

27 Monday Feb 2023

Posted by azahar in andalucia, culture, spain

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accent, Andalucia, spain

andalu

With Andalucía Day coming up there’s been a lot of talk about national “accent bashing” when it comes to regional “andalú” way of speaking. I agree that people should feel proud of their heritage but perhaps Casa Fernandez is taking things a bit far? 😉

mar

28 Wednesday Dec 2022

Posted by azahar in culture, friends, gastronomy, sevilla, social media

≈ 5 Comments

Tags

friends, instagram, sevilla

mar

Back in early October I was sitting at a bar (for a change) in Triana with my friend Lucy and we started chatting with a woman sitting next to us. It turned out she “knew” me from Instagram and so we decided that one day we’d meet up and do some Tapas Research together. Well, what with me getting sick immediately afterwards (gastroenteritis and then covid) and with Mar travelling and then getting sick herself we finally managed to get together today. Met up at La Cayetana and enjoyed a long and very chatty lunch. Mar has a wonderful Instagram account full of great photos and stories about Sevilla. Check it out… @Lost-In-Seville.

Plans are afoot to do have more regular research lunches and maybe also some cultural walks. I reckon between the two of us we know practically EVERYTHING about Sevilla so we can educate each other and have fun too.

welcome to guirilandia

28 Monday Nov 2022

Posted by azahar in culture, sevilla, spain

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sevilla, spain, tourism

guirilandia (1)

Not surprising to learn that 6 out of 10 dwellings in the Barrio Sant Cruz (my old ‘hood) are now tourist apartments. But it was a bit shocking to find out that it is the most tourist saturated neighbourhood IN SPAIN. And these stats are from 2019 so things are actually much worse now. I’ve  been living in Museo for the past five years and even here new tourist apartment buildings – ENTIRE BUILDINGS – are popping up all over the place. Likewise new hotels. Everywhere.

You don’t need much of a brain to figure out that without neighbours there is no neighbourhood. That without neighbours the entire local infrastructure becomes geared to serving tourists, which is quite hideous. No more corner stores, fruit and veg shops, book shops, no more newsagents… small family run bars replaced by sleek and shiny corporate replicants. And instead crass commercialism abounds with tacky souvenir shops vying for space alongside mediocre tapas bars, the streets flooded with dazed tourists thinking they are experiencing the REAL DEAL. The irony of course being that the very thing they have come to see no longer exists and they don’t even know it. I still love Sevilla so much, but I also miss her.

guirilandia (2)

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