Category Archives: spain

galicia getaway – enbhiga day 1

15 Tuesday Oct 2019

Posted by in galicia, gastronomy, getaways, spain

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The first full day of Enbhiga 2019 started off with a 5 hour bus ride from Madrid to a tiny village in Ourense province called Seadur. We were greeted at a rustic bodega by Nacho González, owner of Bodegas La Perdida, DO Valdeorras. Along with a tasting of his natural wines there was a nice warm fire and typical regional snacks (empanadas, stews, cured meats and cheeses).

On the way to Trives we stopped off for a photo op at Ponte Bibei, a roman bridge in A Pobra de Trives. We were supposed to have a wine tasting there too, but the weather was threatening rain so we went directly to Trives, where we would be spending our first night. In the evening there were some cooking demonstrations by various local chefs and producers, followed by a wine tasting of DO Ribeira Sacra wines, and more snacks. It was there I discovered the Bica… a sort of sponge cake made with pork lard that is rich, moist and delicious with just a touch of sweetness. It is now officially my new favourite sweet treat. Later on there was a late night tour of the town planned, but I was ready for bed so I headed back to my hotel.

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my galicia in decanter!

09 Wednesday Oct 2019

Posted by in galicia, spain, wine

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Pretty exciting to get this in the mail today! My latest article in Decanter Magazine, this one on Galicia. It’s actually part of an 82 page supplement with the November issue, all about Spanish wines. I had a bit of a struggle with this one, not just because it was twice as long as the previous one, but it took awhile for me to feel good enough about it to send it in. Apparently Decanter was pleased with it though as they asked me to stay in touch and send them some pitches on different Spanish wine regions. So I think I can now add “Decanter Mag contributor” to my social media profiles   😉

enbhiga 2019

08 Tuesday Oct 2019

Posted by in galicia, gastronomy, getaways, spain

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Next week I’ll be back in Galicia attending ENBHIGA in the province of Ourense, roughly in the south east of Galicia. You may recall that I spent a day in and around Ourense last July when I went up to do research for a Decanter article. This time I will be part of an international and national group of 40 journalists and 10 tour operators (not sure which category I fall into… both?) who have been invited by the Ourense tourist board to get to know this lesser known part of Galicia through its gastronomy.

Last summer I visited three of the five DO wine regions in Galicia – Rías Baixas, Ribeiro, and Ribeira Sacra – so I was very excited to learn that this week-long event would be taking in the other two – Valdorras and Monterrei (whose wines have actually become the new “house wines” at Casa Azahar).

My friends and Super Fixers Anna & Jorge @guitianmayer have organised the itinerary, which is so full-on I fear for, well, something. Hopefully not my life. Perhaps my sanity? We shall see. I actually almost backed out because of the ABDOMINAL PAIN, lest I explode somewhere in the northern countryside and die of sepsis. But last time this went on for over two months without incident, so I will be popping paracetamol and hoping for the best.

Including travel days to Madrid and back the whole trip will be from Monday to Sunday. Full day itineraries Tuesday to Friday, and a half day on Saturday before being taken back to Madrid. Ufff… wish me luck!

VORS sherry cata

05 Saturday Oct 2019

Posted by in getaways, sherry, spain

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As soon as I saw this tasting was coming up I knew I had to go. These monthly sherry tastings held by the Consejo Regulador are always worth going to. Presented by a member of the Consejo and either the winemaker or owner of the bodega (this time it was both), they are also excellent value. And this one with a selection of VORS sherries (over 30 years old) from Bodegas Álvaro Domecq was exceptionally so. 

After the tasting Anne, Paul and I met up with Tomoko for lunch at Albalá. And then I hobbled back to the train station (diverticulitis!) and made my way home. I think I may have overdone things a bit and was in bed by 9 pm, but it was a great day.

josé pérez conde

19 Thursday Sep 2019

Posted by in art, sevilla, spain

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For years I have walked past this man’s window and peered in without trying to be obvious. Even though I reckoned that if he didn’t want people looking in he would close the window (or at least the curtains) but I still didn’t want to be caught out. I mean, most people enjoy peering into open windows and getting a “slice of life” moment from someone else’s life. But this man’s living room is packed full of his artwork, including paintings and sculptures. Most arresting is the massive statue of Jesus in one corner (for awhile it was a Virgin Mary) that dominates the room, and it’s a curious sight to see him casually sitting in his armchair watching TV while passersby stop to have a look.

Anyhow, while I was out walking around with my memories the other day I passed by his house and saw him standing in front of the open window having a cigarette, and for some reason I decided it was time to say hello. And I’m so glad I did! What a lovely man. José Pérez Conde comes from Alosno, a small village in Huelva, and is a renowned painter and sculptor (until then I had no idea he actually MADE the giant virgin and christ figures). We had a nice chat and he told me a bit about himself and his work and, when he found out I was from Canada, he switched to English, taking me totally by surprise. And so now I know a new neighbour and it feels good to be able to greet José now when I walk past.