Every now and then clients turn into friends. This happened most recently during a Tasting Triana Tour with Edye, her husband Steven and their two daughters (aka The Blondes). Well, Steven is an honourary blonde. Anyhow, we started off as usual with a walk through Triana Market and stopping for jamón, cheese and manzanilla sherry. Then it was off to three other bars. And well, we just hit it off and everyone had such a great time. They even totally loved the fried quails, the presentation of which sometimes put people off (see below) but in fact they are delicious. By the end of the tour it was hugs all around and we continued to “chat” by text message while they were in Córdoba. Really hope they will be back.
This is seriously my favourite plating of a tapa in Sevilla, and I mean that sincerely. Simply for the not giving even one fuck attitude. It is what it is (a delicious marinated deep-fried quail), totally no frills and about as far away from pretentious as you can get. No sauce swooshes, no micro herbs tweezered on top (and they don’t charge for the bread). This is Casa Ruperto, a classic bar in Triana that has been serving up the best damn fried quail since the 60s, quickly and efficiently and with a smile. Basically an antidote to wanky gastrobars, to be taken whenever it feels necessary. You can also visit it on my Tasting Triana Tour.
It had been awhile since I last saw Ania @aniainspain (Christmas time in Málaga) and even longer since we’d gone out together in Sevilla. So we made a plan to go Trianeando. We started off with a bit of jamón and cheese at the gorgeous Alfarería 21, before moving on to my latest discovery. I’d spotted a new opening in Triana, a small abacería called Clochard (French for vagabond) and heard that the owners were a Pole and an Italian. An intriguing international combination.
Ania was especially interested to meet the Polish owner, as she is Polish herself, but he was away. But we did meet Francesco, who was lovely, and had a nice time chatting with him while trying some delish fish tapas. We also met a Canadian family there, who are staying in Triana for a few weeks and, just before leaving, also started talking to three people at the next table. Turns out they run Sevilla’s only pawn shop, and vintage goods store, called Overtime. Some of the cool décor at Clochard came from Overtime, so I am looking forward to visiting the shop soon
Last tapas stop was Las Golondrinas for a couple of their famous – and delicious – pork tapas. By this time Ania was craving something sweet, so we headed over to Manu Jara’s dulcería. I’m not big on desserts, but I love his colourful displays. Normally we would have finished the afternoon with a penúltima, but Ania had made plans to go running with her gym group, so we were spared any more wine (probably a good thing). Such a fun afternoon. Pics below…
La Esperanza de Triana is one of the two “grande dames” of Semana Santa in Sevilla (the other being La Macarena) and they both go out (salir) during the overnight (madrugada) processions between Maundy Thursday and Good Friday. For the rest of the year they are on display in their respective home churches. This is why Thursday’s procession to the Cathedral was a Salida Extraordinara (extraordinary outing), which was followed by the return procession on Saturday. ,
The occasion for the Salida Exraordinara was the celebration of the sixth centenary of the founding of the brotherhood, the oldest in Sevilla, culminating with a commemorative eucharist mass on November 3rd at 11 am at the altar of the Jubilee of the Seo Hispalense inside the Cathedral.
I caught the outgoing procession on Thursday, as it happened to be passing near my home, and I happened to be on my way home at the time. It’s been many years since I last saw the Esperanza, as she comes out during the night and returns quite early Friday morning during Easter week (and to be honest, my going out all night – and going out early – days are long over). Even though I’m not religious I quite enjoy the occasional procession, and so it was nice to see one of Sevilla’s most beautiful pasos again.