Category Archives: spain

jaén getaway

18 Monday Aug 2014

Posted by in spain, travel, trips, work

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jaen getaway
As I knew I had to get up at stupid o’clock today to catch an early train, I prepared this post before going to bed. So by the time you read this I will (most likely) be sitting on a train heading to Jaén. All part of summer research for my trip planning biz, but also part holiday. I’ve never been to Jaén – the olive oil capital of Spain! – and so booked a few days away. After this the only Andalusian province I won’t have visited (yet) will be Almería, but I reckon I’ve got enough knowledge and info to at least get started. As you can see on the map (click on it to find out more about Jaén on Andalucía.com) the province of Jaén is just north of Granada, about a three-hour train ride from Sevilla. After arriving in Jaén city I’ll catch a bus up to Baeza and stay there one night, then I’ll be in Úbeda for two nights, and after that one night in Jaén city before coming home on Friday afternoon.

At first I’d booked two nights in Jaén city thinking that, being the capital city and all, it would have more going on. But various Twitter pals convinced me to change my travel plans and spend two nights in the smaller, and apparently more charming, Úbeda. It was all very last minute and at first my hotel in Úbeda told me they had nothing available for Wednesday, but then miraculously they did, so that all worked out. I also got way more tapas bar recommendations for both Baeza and Úbeda – and next to nothing for Jaén – from Twitter pals, which also swayed my choice. Also I just like saying OO-bay-da.

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friday market in jerez

26 Saturday Jul 2014

Posted by in andalucia, azahartravels, food & drink, spain

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jerez market
Friday was market day in Jerez. I love visiting markets everywhere I go and Jerez is my second favourite market in Andalucía (after Cádiz). We stopped first for some hot crispy churros and industrial strength coffee in the square in front of the market and then strolled around the place for a good hour or so. I don’t know why this market has such a hold on me, but everytime I go there I wish we had a similar market in Sevilla – and there are some very nice ones here! On the other hand, if you took the Jerez market out of Jerez…

After the market visit we did some easy sightseeing around town and had a nice lunch at Ajonegro (a place I had visited before). And then it was time to head back to DREAD HOTEL to pick up our bags and get over to the train station. Given that it’s just an hour’s ride from Sevilla I think I will be doing more Jerez day trips from now on. Have a look at the Azahar Travel blog in the next few days for more detailed accounts of the Jerez Getaway.

sherry tasting marathon

24 Thursday Jul 2014

Posted by in andalucia, azahartravels, food & drink, spain, travel, trips, wine, work

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sherry marathon
Thursday was sherry tasting madness with three bodega tours booked starting at 9.30 am and finishing around 3.30 pm. But unlike the regular tourist tour I did at Gonzalez Byass on Wednesday, these were all private visits, and I felt both honoured and privileged that these very special wineries made me feel so welcome. And talk about educational! I had previously found out that I wasn’t able to get into this September’s Sherry Educator course (though I was promised a place for next year). But this sherry tasting marathon was almost like doing a mini course in a few hours. I just let each person take me through the sherry making process from the beginning, in their own way, and it was very interesting how I learned different things at each place. Each bodega was unique and everyone I spoke to was incredibly passionate about their work. And the wines! Stunning. I will be doing a more indepth report on all this a bit later on Azahar Travels, but I have to say that the more I learn about sherry, the more I realise what a wonderfully complex wine it is. As my friend (and sherry educator) Annie Manson says, you never stop learning about sherry.

Anyhow, I thoroughly enjoyed the day, being treated like a VIP and getting caught up in all the stories and discussions. After the final tasting Peter and I popped over to Bar Arturo, renowned for its no-nonsense décor and fabulous fish and seafood. Absolute fishy heaven. And crazy good tomatoes too.

bar arturo

The three bodegas we visited were: Bodegas Lustau, Bodegas Tradición and Bodegas Urium.

jerez getaway

22 Tuesday Jul 2014

Posted by in cats, spain, travel, trips, work

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jerez getaway
So what went from thinking of spending a few days in Granada yesterday somehow morphed into this very impromptu Jerez getaway today. Two nights, three days, all thrown together in less than a few hours. A couple of bodegas have been booked, along with what I hope is a nice hotel, and so off I go mañana. Peter is coming with me and will stay over the first night. Second night he’ll go home to check on the cats (it’s just an hour by train) and will come back early Friday morning. Then we’ll both come home Friday evening. I’m probably being over-protective but it’s hard enough leaving the beasts overnight. Somehow I’d be fine leaving Luna and Loki for two nights, but I worry about Morcilla. Too much, I know. Well. We’ll see how it goes. If I’m feeling more relaxed about this on Thursday evening then maybe Peter won’t go back to check on them.

Meanwhile, it’s going to be three days of sherry research and spending some quality time in Jerez when it isn’t Feria. Looking forward to it!