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Category Archives: malaga getaway

missing málaga

16 Wednesday Dec 2020

Posted by azahar in andalucia, christmas, Malaga, malaga getaway

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coronavirus

missing malaga

Quite bittersweet stuff on social media this week with those MEMORIES they pop into your timeline so you can remember where you were on this day however many years ago. I mean, they are usually quite nice, but this year – and especially this week – I am just reminded almost daily that I SHOULD BE IN MÁLAGA.

I don’t actually remember the last time I didn’t go to Málaga in December, even for a couple of days. It’s become such an annual thing… Málaga in the summer and Málaga at Christmas. Needless to say I didn’t get there this past summer either. And in theory I could go as of this Friday, when they relax the travel restrictions so that we can now travel between provinces within our regions. In fact a friend very generously offered to pay for my train fare. But I just can’t. First of all… don’t wanna die! And of course I would not risk infecting other people outside my small living bubble (not an official bubble, but it’s somewhat bubblish).

Since… October??… I started only going out maybe a couple of times a week. During the summer and even September things felt almost normal in spite of the restrictions and even I was feeling less threatened by the virus, while of course taking all the precautions when out. But then numbers started climbing again and I decided to stay home more. Turned out that Andalucía in November had the highest number of new Covid cases and DEATHS since April, so that was probably a good decision. For those who don’t know, I am high risk for catching this fucker, with compromised immune system due to previous cancer and chemo.

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axarquía getaway day 3 – capuchinas viejas

12 Thursday Mar 2020

Posted by azahar in alternatravels, getaways, Malaga, malaga getaway, wine

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axarquía getaway, axarquia, bodega capuchinas viejas, bodegas, Malaga, malaga getaway, wineries

After the charming village setting of Dimobe and Viñedos Verticales, and the sweeping views stretching out below the elegant slate structure that houses Betomiz, I didn’t know what to expect next when Susana, owner of Bodega Capuchinas Viejas met me near Málaga to take me out to their cortijo near Antequera. Unlike the other two places I’d visited high up in the Axarquía, Capuchinas Viejas is located on a sprawling 20 hectare estate, where they grow both olives and grapes, for their own use as well as to sell.

The García Segura family has owned the estate since the beginning of the 80s, when Susana’s father purchased an abandoned monastery, and it remains very much a family-run venture, with respect for both the land and local traditions.

I was quite awestruck as Susana let me inside through the front gate (the place is surrounded by giant Mastiff guard dogs) and then continued to open massive door after door that opened onto magical courtyards and gardens, a bird coop that houses peacocks, gorgeous event rooms, the bodega itself, and family apartments. This is clearly a labour of love.

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axarquía getaway day 2 – part one: bodegas bentomiz

12 Thursday Mar 2020

Posted by azahar in andalucia, getaways, Malaga, malaga getaway, wine

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axarquía getaway, axarquia, bodegas, Malaga, malaga getaway, wineries

Nothing quite prepares you for your first look at the modern and minimalist slate structure that is Bodegas Bentomiz. It looks like it has risen up from the very ground surrounding it and inside it is both functional and attractive, with massive windows everywhere letting in lots of natural light. Spectacular views of the mountains and the sparkling Mediterranean are everywhere you look.

After the wonderful day spent out in the vineyards and at the bodega at Dimobe in Moclinejo Victor brought me back to Málaga where I had arranged to meet up with winemaker Clara, co-owner of Bodegas Bentomiz, which she runs with her husband André, who is not only the resident chef, but also the architect who designed the building (and several others nearby). Clara had been in Madrid and was arriving in Málaga by train in the evening, and had very generously offered to take me out to their installation just outside Sayalonga, as well as inviting me to stay the night.

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axarquía getaway day 1 – part 2: bodegas dimobe & viñedos verticales

11 Wednesday Mar 2020

Posted by azahar in andalucia, getaways, Malaga, malaga getaway, spain, tourism, wine

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axarquía getaway, axarquia, bodegas, Malaga, malaga getaway, wineries

Victor & me at the end of a spectacular day
saying goodbye to Málaga from the Parador Hotel Gibralfaro

First off I have to say that each of the three bodegas I visited in the Axarquía over two days were all completely different and totally wonderful experiences. First up, after a hearty pre-bodega breakfast at El Roper in El Palo, Victor and I made our way to the ridiculously pretty white village of Moclinejo, high up in the mountains. There we were greeted by Juan Muñoz Anaya and Vicente Inat, two winemakers who work together at Bodegas Dimobe, as well as working together on a separate project Viñedos Verticales. Dimobe was founded in 1927 by Juan’s grandfather and he now runs it with siblings Antonio and María Luísa. In 2015 Juan and Vicente founded Viñedos Verticales, a “sister winery” project which uses the same installation as Bodegas Dimobe in Moclinejo, and with different vine plots and grapes they are creating something that is both old and new.

Just to confuse you further, Vicente is also the winemaker at Bodegas Descalzos Viejos in Ronda, which I had visited a week earlier, and his wife Ana (who I got to meet later in the day after lunch) is the winemaker at another Ronda winery I visited, La Melonera. This was something I got used to over my two weeks of visiting Málaga wineries… that everyone not only knows each other, they sometimes work together and more often than not are very supportive of each others projects. It’s actually a lovely thing to see. Especially in Ronda the whole winemaking scene is quite new, starting sometimes in the 1980s, and everyone wants to see the region doing well. But I digress…

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one too many

20 Friday Dec 2019

Posted by azahar in getaways, Malaga, malaga getaway

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Malaga, malaga getaway

Spotted outside a wine shop in Málaga…

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