
My goodness I love an unexpected summer storm and especially when it brings us so much much-needed rain. View outside my balcony… was also a good excuse to stay in and do a bunch of cooking.
19 Wednesday Jun 2024
18 Tuesday Jun 2024
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No words…
Okay I take that back. Plenty of words, beginning with WHAT THE ACTUAL FUCK?? This is the latest campaign from Sevilla City Office in cahoots with City Council called #PASSIONFORSUMMER… promoting Sevilla as a summer hot spot. And well, it actually is, but not in the way they are presenting it.
Can I tell you? Sevilla is NOT a place you want to be between June and September. It just is not. Back when I first moved here (1993) the no-go period was always July & August. Thanks to climate change this now includes June and the first half of September, when you can expect temps of 40ºC or more. Relentless scorching heat that makes it actually unhealthy to be outdoors for any length of time – last year was brutal. And it’s dangerous. For years visitors on my tapas tours have asked me how I cope with the HEAT here in summer and my answer is… I STAY HOME. Heck, I don’t even offer tours in August.
The problem is that since the massive mass-tourism reboot here (after covid lockdown) things have gone from already very bad to way out of control. The City is boasting that last year saw more tourists visiting Sevilla than ever before (some obscene amount, I can’t remember, 35 million?) and that this year they want even more!!! New hotels are going up at breakneck speed and neighbourhoods continue to be decimated by the ravages of uncontrolled tourist apartments. Local shopkeepers and independent bar & restaurant owners are pushed out to make way for slick corporate-owned spots dressed up to look “authentic” offering a watered-down “tourist friendly” version of Sevilla. You know, because god forbid you should actually feel like you’re in another country.
I just want to point out that this massive influx of tourists is not actually helping us, the people who live here. It mostly helps to fill government coffers, promote foreign investment (most tourist apartments are not owned by locals) and all the employment “thanks to tourism” that you hear about… it’s all low-end jobs, poorly paid, no future. So when you come here and marvel that “everything is so cheap here!” keep in mind that it’s not cheap for us, because we don’t make your salaries.
By all means come and visit, but please be aware of what is happening here. And not just here but everywhere – over tourism has become a serious global threat to cultures and communities. For example, be aware that Andalucía, and other parts of Spain, have been suffering through a three-year drought. Yes, your hotel swimming pool will (probably) still be full and you will be allowed to take as many showers as you like and, no doubt, you’ll keep that AC blasting 24/7. But this puts huge stress not only on our limited water supply but also our infrastructure. We are well used to never wasting a drop of water but some neighbourhoods here have already been suffering power cuts. Please know this.
And yes, I know that I work with tourists on my tapas tours, but again, over tourism has not meant more work for me. My small group tours have always been in demand and the main issue I have with the plethora of new food tour companies is that they shove groups of 10 or more into *my* small intimate bars and really spoil the vibe. So no, I am not anti-tourism, just anti-mass-out-of-control-overtourism.
I’ll also go as far to say that most residents here aren’t anti-tourism per se… but we are tired of seeing our communities destroyed by corporate greed and government mismanagement. When you are seeing the protests, the demonstrations, when you see TOURISTS GO HOME spray painted on your AirBnB rental… this is not about you, the visitor. But the government is happy to play it that way and create a false Residents vs Tourists divisive issue because it takes the onus off them.
My point is… you are welcome. We love to welcome you and have you enjoy our city, our culture and all that it has to offer. But perhaps in exchange you could also do us a small favour, which is to respect our city and our culture (and I know that most of you do!). There are some ways to help out… for example, you could book independently-run hotels and make sure your holiday apartment is actually legal (those locks hanging off window bars, or anywhere with nobody there to greet you… nope). Sure, it might cost a bit more, but I kind of think we’re worth it, and so is everywhere else you will want to visit. What do you think?
14 Friday Jun 2024
05 Wednesday Jun 2024
Posted in coronavirus, covid, health, health & happiness, spain
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This article mostly focuses on the province of Córdoba (an hour’s drive from Sevilla) but the gist of it is that the increase in respiratory conditions in the province is because Spain is experiencing a new epidemic wave of Covid. The incidence of Flu and RSV is zero. In other words, all respiratory illnesses happening now are Covid.
Meanwhile there are people coughing all over the place (in June!), others complaining about their “allergies” starting sooner or being harsher than before, and others having sudden “mystery fevers” that leave them in bed for a couple of days. Two weeks ago I was hit with a gastro bug that left me bedridden for 24 hours and then very weak afterwards. And yes of course I tested for Covid because… why the fuck not? Covid can hit other parts of you because it ISN’T PRIMARILY A RESPIRATORY ILLNESS. It’s actually a virus that attacks your immune system and your organs and can leave you totally fucked, even if your symptoms during infection were “mild”. I think the best trick the devil ever pulled was convincing people that Covid is no longer a global health threat.
People requesting my tapas tours are told that I am only offering tours to those who are fully vaccinated and boosted (last available booster). For the most part the response to that has been very positive with people telling me they are really happy to know I am taking precautions. Have had a couple of deniers send me a lecture on how I’m living my life wrong, but you know, fuck them.
BUT I have noticed it is getting more difficult. There’s a bit more push back these days about wearing masks, about even talking about Covid, and I can see that this is probably going to escalate as the world keeps pretending we are “post pandemic”. ALSO… just to point out that almost every article I see on Covid these days shows a photo like the one above of a sad and dirty surgical mask trampled in the street… as in we should all just give up and die already. Because the other greatest trick the devil ever pulled was convincing people that Covid is only harmful to the “vulnerable” creating an US AND THEM mentality with “healthy” people thinking they are immune. Well guess what motherfuckers… you are ALL vulnerable. You just haven’t found out yet. Have a great day.
03 Monday Jun 2024
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Had two very lovely and quite different hotel experiences while I was away in Jerez for Vinoble last week. Four star Hotel Boutique Palacio Corredera is about a ten-minute walk from the train station, so that made it a good first stop on day one. We were able to drop our bags and head directly to Vinoble, finally checking in properly after lunch. And there was a suprise! I had asked for two beds and they ended up giving us a “family suite” (number 18) with a sofa bed for Peter (for the same price as a standard double room). Check out the instagram video below… this suite was SPACIOUS. It even had two bathrooms. There were also several beautiful courtyards used as “common areas” with comfy chairs and sofas, and a small “courtesy” room where you could make yourself a cup of coffee or have a drink. Very well thought out and very friendly and helpful staff too. Breakfast wasn’t included (I never book hotel breakfasts, more on that below) so we went to one of several little nearby bars for our tostadas (the central market is also just around the corner with Manolo’s amazing churros).
I think this has become my new favourite place to stay in Jerez (that is within my budget). It has location and style and comfort going for it, and I really felt at home here.
VIDEO: Hotel Boutique Palacio Corredera

Next day we checked in at grand lux 5 star Casa Palacio María Luisa, winner of the Best Boutique Hotel in Spain 2024 (World Travel Awards). You may wonder what the heck I was doing there. WELL… a couple of months ago I was invited to the opening of the rooftop bar at their sister hotel, 5 star GL Don Ramón in Sevilla. The first part was for press and they held a raffle for a free night at the hotel… and I won! But remembering that I would be going to Jerez for Vinoble I asked if I could swap hotels. Cheeky, but they said sure, that would be fine. We checked in just before lunch and, gotta admit, after all that extra space at the Corredera our beautiful premium room (number 9) felt a bit pokey in comparison, though it did have a lovely view of the garden and, for a freebie, I couldn’t really expect their María Luisa Suite (which is about the size of my apartment). It’s all about luxury here (a couple of days before arriving I was sent an email asking which toiletries I would like between three premium brands) and we had a lovely welcoming gift in the room of cookies, chocolates and a small bottle of cream sherry. Later in the afternoon while we were out they turned down the beds and left a cute fluffy teddy bear with a message (wasn’t sure if this was ours to take home so we left it).
There were also several attractive common rooms we could enjoy and of course their spectacular garden and cocktail bar. We had breakfast included which was served in a charming glass-covered terrace overlooking the garden, and I loved that it wasn’t buffet style (hate buffet breakfasts). The main reason I never ask for a hotel breakfast is simply because I never eat much in the morning and can’t justify the price when all I really want is coffee, maybe a glass of juice and some toast or a croissant. As you can imagine, the toast here was superb, as was the coffee, and so no complaints at all. The María Luisa also has an in-house restaurant, the aforementioned garden cocktail bar and will attend to your every need.
VIDEO: Casa Palacio María Luisa
Both of these hotels will be mentioned in an upcoming travel article in Decanter – stay tuned! Also, sorry about the Insta links for the hotel vids but I’m not allowed to upload videos here anymore. When did WP change that?