Every since I first experienced David Muñoz’s Street XO in Madrid in the summer of 2014 I’ve been wanting to go back. In fact, I did try going back with Jo when I was in Madrid this past summer, but we got there too late and they had already closed off the queue. We ended up next door at the fabulous Cascabel instead, which wasn’t a bad “consolation prize” at all, but it still wasn’t StreetXO. So during this Madrid Getaway Peter and I made sure that we got there early, just before they opened for lunch service, and before long we were happily ensconced at the bar, ready for the show to begin.

Since my 2014 visit, StreetXO has moved to bigger digs, upstairs at the Corte Inglés Gourmet Experience in calle Serrano, a space it shares with two other Michelin-star chef ventures: Cascabel by Roberto Ruiz and Rocambolesc by Jordi Roca. The set up is more or less the same as at the original Callo location, but the horseshoe bar is about three times as large, and there are also a few tables along the side. The menu is similar with a few of the old favourites still available (pig ear dumplings, steamed “club sandwich”, pork belly and smoked mussel in lettuce leaves). The dumplings were a must, and after that we tried two new dishes: presa Ibérca a la robata and Korean wonton lasagna.

Service was impeccable, but I did miss the presence of chef Jhonny, who is now manning the flames at the new StreetXO location in London. Can’t wait to go back again.