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It’s done! Third jab.
09 Thursday Dec 2021
Posted in coronavirus, covid, health & happiness
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It’s done! Third jab.
29 Monday Nov 2021
Posted in coronavirus, covid, sevilla, travel
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Well fuck. Though I guess nobody should really be surprised by this latest even more contagious Covid variant since we keep on not sending vaccines to less developed nations, preferring to make anti-vaxxing a political football at home. I mean seriously, just send the damn vaccines to the people who really want them. And so the latest variant omicron has left its “birthplace” of South Africa and is now rapidly travelling around the world, just as Delta (India) and Alpha (UK) did before it. Of course by the time we are notified of it even existing, by the time we are told it is a “variant of concern”, it is already spreading everywhere. And so now what?
For the most part this wouldn’t affect me in the sense that my life wouldn’t change that much. EXCEPT that this week I had made plans to take a couple of research trips (for another Decanter article) to Cádiz province, first to Arcos de la Frontera and then to Cádiz city and El Puerto de Santa María. Now I just want to stay at home. I mean, if these trips had been last week I wouldn’t have been as worried as I am now, even though the reality of the situation probably wasn’t much different last week, we just didn’t know about it yet.
And so… fuck it, I am going. Today to Arcos on a day trip with my friend Tania in her car. We’ll be visiting two bodegas and then coming home in the afternoon. And tomorrow I’ll be going to Cádiz by train with Peter, stopping off first in El Puerto to visit another bodega, then overnighting in Cádiz city, and coming back on Wednesday. I had originally planned on staying two nights in Cádiz but have decided to just stay for one and cut back on exposure risks.
Last Friday my health centre told me I could have my booster shot today (!!!) but as I won’t be here I have to go back and rebook it after I return. In any case, the booster wouldn’t have “taken effect” in time to make any difference for this trip. But guys… THIS IS MY FIRST TIME OUT OF SEVILLA SINCE MARCH 2020. I’m a bit terrified.
23 Tuesday Nov 2021
Posted in coronavirus, covid, health & happiness

Walking past my neighbourhood churros place, the legendary Calentería San Pablo, I saw these signs (the Spanish one says “we won’t serve anyone without a mask”) and asked if I could take a photo. Because… YES. The churros counter is open to the street but of course people coming up to place orders are less than a metre away from the staff. I was told they have been threatened by customers who yell at them and say all kinds of nasty crap. But you know what? Their business, THEIR RULES. So suck it up, assholes.
I am so grateful for the continued mask mandate in Spain, which we’ve been told will be in place at least until spring. Even though more and more people (mostly tourists) are not wearing masks outdoors even when not maintaining the 1.5 metre social distance requirement, at least there is an element of safety when going anywhere indoors or public transport, etc.
Covid infection numbers have been steadily rising the past few weeks and there is already talk of the sixth wave. Happily they have reduced the time between second jabs and the booster, from six months to three, so I should be getting mine very soon.
05 Friday Nov 2021
Posted in change, covid, sevilla, tapas bars
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I remember when Bodega La Aurora (founded in 1913) celebrated its 100 year anniversary and then sadly, a couple of years later the owner Agustín died. As he had no family members who wanted to continue the business, it was sold to a couple of young guys who more or less maintained the physical aspect of the bar, with a few changes, but really it all changed. It definitely had (still has) a hipster vibe to it and the menu is also different now. Somehow it didn’t seem right that the sign outside still said Founded In 1913, but it was also obvious that the new owners weren’t trying to fool anybody.
Fast forward to 2020, when we lost several of my favourite bars and restaurants. Some reopened with a new name and identity, but others were taken over by large restaurant groups and… well, had their identities stolen. In the case of Casa Eme it was bought by three guys who had always loved the place and they haven’t really changed much, wanting to keep the essence of one of Sevilla’s most singular tapas bars alive. I still haven’t been able to bring myself to check it out. I did go to Bar Manolo in the Plaza Alfalfa, which closed after 85 years and was later totally renovated by Grupo Spala and renamed Casa Manolo… and well, nah.
But for me the two worst examples of blatant identity theft are what happened after two centenario bars closed during and shortly after the first Covid lockdown.
I was never a regular at Bodegas Díaz-Salazar, but I did go there now and again, and it was heartbreaking to learn that the owner committed suicide during lockdown. It remained closed for a while before being taken over by a group that runs several places in town like this. And you know, it infuriated me. Because it still says Founded in 1908 outside the bar and on their website they use the tagline With You Since 1908. The place has been totally redone, maintaining some of the old features, and they have copied the old menu but not the prices. Clearly the renovation and all those uniformed waiters set them back a fair bit, but it is not anything like the old place and IT WAS FOUNDED IN 2021.
The worst of these for me felt very personal because I absolutely adored Bodega San José. And while it would have been understandable if Nicolás Bueno and his sister María del Rosario had decided to close this was not the case. Turns out they were forced out by a greedy landlord who refused to renew their contract. But they still bravely reopened after the first Covid lockdown, even knowing that their days were numbered. And then they were gone. These new owners also make a big deal of their fake heritage with “From 1893” featuring on the (new) awning outside the bar and on their instagram account. I have peeked into the bar and there is just no way. Like Sálazar it now looks like a “tidied up” version of the past that will appeal to pijos and tourists.
And for the record, this isn’t about me wanting to hold on to the past. Another favourite of mine, Casa Antonio – Los Caracoles, also shut for good during lockdown. And while I was very sad to see it gone I was also pleased when the people who took over the space, Cervecería Salmedina, turned it into something totally new and unique. It’s now one of my new favourite spots in the city.
Anyhow, I know that I am ranting into the wind (once again) because I’m sure hardly anyone else cares about this. But I would rather walk past an old favourite bar now renamed and think “that used to be such-and-such” instead of seeing the same name being used by the newcomers, with menus badly copied and false claims to longevity. All to cash in on a history that is not theirs.
28 Thursday Oct 2021
Posted in coronavirus, covid, health & happiness

Today I went to get my flu jab and the nurse said I was also eligible for a bonus pneumonia jab (cos I’m OLD), so I said, hell yes, give me all the jabs. One in each arm. Still waiting for word on the Covid booster shot. At the moment in Andalucía they are only doing over 70s and front line workers, and beginning to give kids their first jabs. Anyhow. This is good. Because I really feel this winter is going to be the real test re: Covid and all the variants, and how (if?) we end up working together to eradicate it. And every day I give thanks that we will have a mask mandate in place until (at least) next spring.