Category Archives: travel

on travel writing

11 Wednesday Oct 2023

Posted by in tourism, travel, writing

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travel writing

Personally I’ve never considered myself a travel writer, or even any other sort of writer really, except that I do WRITE ALL THE TIME EVERY DAY. But while I acknowledge that this doesn’t actually make me a Writer, just someone who writes a lot of stuff all the time, over the years a few publications have asked me to write this or that for them – mostly travel articles – and it was exciting (and scary) to be recognised as a Writer and also be paid for it. Even though the pay wasn’t really the point most of the time since usually it didn’t even come close to matching the time, effort and expense it took me to write the article, but what the heck. I still got my name published out there in a newspaper or magazine. And that was a real thrill, and still is to be honest, seeing my name in print.

But suddenly it all feels very different. Lately I’m being asked to pitch ideas, most of which are rejected, and then sometimes I see a VERY SIMILAR article I pitched published using another writer. And well okay, it’s a competitive business (except I’m not remotely competitive) but dammit. Because it’s not only about that. It’s when I see that these other articles are poorly researched and oftentimes just seem like thinly-disguised advertorials that were hastily thrown together. At first it irked because I KNEW I could have – and would have – done a better job, both in terms of accurate research and having a more interesting take on the subject. But then I couldn’t help but wonder… what if that is no longer the point? What if nobody wants me to write an interesting article about a place I love anymore? What if it’s all just about clicks and paid-for promo? Well, if that’s the case, you can count me out. Because if I put my name to something I want to feel proud of it.

NOTE: not having a go at people who do this because they have bills to pay, kids (or pets) to feed, etc. Fair play to them. It’s more about how we’re being manipulated into this new format that almost looks legit except everyone knows it isn’t (probably even the readers), and we’re supposed to act like that’s okay.

it’s f*cking october!

02 Monday Oct 2023

Posted by in culture, seasons, sevilla, tourism, travel

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october

Which means it should not be 35º and I should not have to put on the AC in the late afternoon because it’s 29º in my living room. These past two years have been so fucked up here. Way too hot for far too long and NO RAIN. Or at least not enough to make any difference. I mean, you all know l like sandal weather to last as long as possible, but that doesn’t have to be at these crazy temps.

And (here comes the rant) I’m getting so tired of people commenting on how LUCKY we are because it’s all rainy, cold and miserable where they are. Well guess what? It’s actually miserable for us when our reservoirs are down to less than 25% capacity, our crops are dying (olive oil production is half of what it should be this year… for starters) and it’s actually too hot to comfortably take a walk or sit outside. Water bills are going up by 35% starting next month, electricity is already off the charts, and in some cases basic food costs have almost doubled in the past couple of years. Yet our incomes have not increased.

Of course people coming here on holiday think it’s all a fabulous bargain as things are still cheaper than back at home, but do they even give a thought about us? More and more I feel resentful towards tourists who only think of us as their “cheap sunshine break” and especially when they come here, and if we are very lucky and it rains, then omg they feel hard done by because their holiday has been ruined.

And yes I know some of my work is reliant on tourism, to an extent. But my food tour clients tend to be the kind of travellers who fit into my rather niche offering. Which means they are conscious of what’s going on and, I think, travel with a bit more awareness and respect than the average tourist. Because once Sevilla turns into a desert and daily summer temps hit 50º and there is NO WATER… well, that’ll be it for tourism. I don’t think I’ll live to see that day, which I don’t think is that far off, but it still hurts to watch people being so uncaring and selfish. Same old…

big tourism

15 Tuesday Aug 2023

Posted by in rants, sevilla, spain, tourism, travel

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big tourism

We’ve had Big Tobacco, Big Pharma, Big Oil, Big Agriculture and now we have Big Tourism, except we keep calling it “mass tourism” as if it’s something just happening to us rather than something planned, controlled and promoted by… ??? I mean we know the culprits behind the other “Bigs”. But who is leading Big Tourism? Anybody know? Continue reading →

we’re on fire, folks… please don’t visit

27 Thursday Jul 2023

Posted by in sevilla, tourism, travel

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wildfires

A couple of articles caught my eye this week…

As my home city of Athens burns, I can only watch in amazement as sunseekers fly in

Jetting off to the sun? The adverts are selling you a ticket to climate disaster

We are on fire here in many ways. First of all, yes, wildfires are ripping through the Mediterranean and *checks notes* causing holiday goers all kinds of distress. Or that’s how it’s being played on most media.

My question is, why the fuck are they here anyhow? Do they not read the news? Or even the weather reports? Do they not give a shit about anyone other than themselves? I’ve come to realise that these “sun seekers” are ignorant at best, borderline sociopaths at worst. Of course they are being played by travel companies, airlines, hotel chains who NEED them to keep travelling so badly that they offer crazy deals while bombarding everywhere with their relentless “get away” advertising campaigns.

I mean, airlines were still flying people into Rhodes in the middle of an evacuation crisis due to wildfires. And we’re not just talking about tourists – at least they got to flee to the nearest airport to get home while locals lost homes and businesses and lives. But it’s been clear for months that we are in serious drought conditions here, our forests are kindling, and residents face water shortages, with food shortages coming up soon. So WHY are people still coming here to holiday??

What are we? Nothing to you? Nobodies? Or are our towns and cities just places for you to pretend you are at least temporarily living a better life than the one you actually have?

Sevilla is not on fire, yet. But we have not had enough rain for TWO YEARS. So clearly our resources are very low and already water restrictions have been put into place in various places in Andalucía. Also, with record high temperatures the past month there is a real threat to our power grid, that it can withstand the needs of our residents. OF OUR RESIDENTS. Think about that.

When tourists come here en masse during difficult times they are mostly benefitting airline companies, hotel chains, tour companies… very little trickles down to us. Because think about it… you are here using our precious water (we don’t have enough) and still expect your pool to be filled while enjoying your all-day hotel air-con (while we worry about how our power grid can support us) … and you’re not giving a thought to that? Well, maybe you should. I hope you will.

rick & me

09 Tuesday May 2023

Posted by in sevilla, tapas, tapas bars, tapas tours, tourism, travel

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rick shawn

I had a very special guest on Monday evening… Rick Steves was in town and, as I’ve had the honour of being mentioned in two of his Spain travel guides the past few years (recommended by his local guide writer), it was high time we met up in person. Can I tell you? Rick is a lovely guy and a total force of nature. I had no idea what to expect, whether he wanted a tapas tour or just to talk about me and what I am doing and the Sevilla tapas scene, maybe get some recommendations on other places he could add to his guide… turned out that, yep, he wanted it all! And honestly, it was so much fun. Looking back, we stopped in at 16 (!!!) tapas bars and restaurants over five hours. Not eating at all of them obviously (we only did that at two stops) but checking out the places, ambiance, menus, etc. with Rick scribbling notes as we went. It was definitely a night of heavy researching.

Our first stop to actually stop at was Casa Morales. Reyes Morales was just coming back from walking her dog and said we had to come in and have a cold beer and a tapa. And well, who were we to argue with tapas bar royalty? At the last stop of the night, Salmedina, we also stopped in to eat. Rick had tried to get in the night of the Copa del Rey match and, well, no way. But luckily not only was there a table available for us, both owner/chefs were there (usually they trade off). Jaime and Pedro welcomed us and suggested we just try whatever they wanted us to try, thus a small but exquisite tasting menu ensued. My god. Every bite was heaven. And I even got to give Rick a little sherry education.

What can I say? It was a Tapeo Extremo to beat all others, all totally spontaneous and fun. Have already warned him that next time we’re going to Triana… and now that I know what he likes, well, it’s going to be epic.

Rick, thanks again for everything. Being in your guide has been amazing and I hope to continue being a trusted source for you and your travellers.

rick me (2)