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Category Archives: culture

art & mercy

13 Wednesday Aug 2025

Posted by azahar in art, culture, sevilla, spain

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art, bellas artes museum, sevilla, spain

The Bellas Artes (Fine Arts) Museum is a 4 minute walk from my house, according to google maps. These days it’s more like a 15 minute painful hobble, but still. IT’S NOT FAR. And I don’t go there nearly often enough. Especially considering that residents get in for free. It’s housed in a stunning ex-convent and is worth going just to see the building. But the collections are also spectacular, and this new one caught my interest.

The Hospital de la Caridad (Charity Hospital), founded in 1663 by Miguel de Mañara, is undergoing quite extensive renovations and so they have moved their art collection over to the museum until work is finished. This means works that were previously hung at various levels, behind the altar, etc inside the church can now be seen in a gallery setting at eye level. These include paintings by Murillo and Valdés Leal and sculptures by Roldán. Wow.

I mean, pretty special just to see these pieces up close, but for me it was the whole theme that moved me as well. Charity and mercy… taking care of those around you. Okay, this was mostly so that you’d end up going to heaven, but still, it’s not a bad message. Look at DEATH down there standing on now totally useless wordly possessions, reminding us that you can’t take it with you.

There were 17 works in all and by the end I could only think of how far we have strayed from caring about our fellow humans. Though maybe it’s always been that way, otherwise why create this whole heaven/hell myth to scare people into behaving with compassion and basic decency? I dunno… getting very tired of the world these days. And am pretty much fed up with people. Not ALL people, obviously (not you guys!) but you know what I mean. Thank god for cats.

semana santa 2025

18 Friday Apr 2025

Posted by azahar in culture, sevilla, spain, substack

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semana santa, sevilla, spain, substack

As promised, my latest post on Substack… just kinda happened, wasn’t planned. But here you go. Semana Santa… the grumpy version. If you like it please give it a like and if you really like it please consider becoming a paid or free subscriber. Thanks!

Semana Santa 2025

jueves santo 2025

17 Thursday Apr 2025

Posted by azahar in culture, sevilla, spain, tapas, tapas bars

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semana santa, sevilla, spain, tapas

Today I went out mantilla hunting… love seeing the women dressed in black on Maundy Thursday and Good Friday, so elegant with their black lace mantillas draped over a tall tortoise shell comb. I especially love the older women (some of the younger ones are in tight black mini-dresses with cut-away fronts like… wtf??). The idea is that the women are in mourning because Christ has died, and it’s a lovely tradition when done properly.

As I had to get deep into the Cathedral zone and my old neighbourhood Barrio Santa Cruz to catch the mantilla ladies out in force we ended up stopping in at Casa Román on the off chance they had a free table… and yes they did, a perfect spot by the open door. Half an hour later the place was pretty much mobbed, so we got the timing right. Then on the way home I saw a couple of things that made me, well, sad. So when I got back I started writing about it… look for a new post on Substack tomorrow!

open sunday & monday

08 Tuesday Apr 2025

Posted by azahar in culture, restaurants, sevilla, spain, substack, tapas, tapas bars

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restaurants, sevilla, substack, tapas bars

The latest on Bitesize Sevilla… A guide to (good) bars and restaurants that are open in Sevilla on Sunday and Monday. Go check it out and give it a “like” (if you like it). And if you really like it consider becoming a free or paid subscriber. Thanks!

Open Sunday & Monday

ash wednesday 2025

05 Wednesday Mar 2025

Posted by azahar in cooking, culture, religion, sevilla

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ash wednesday, customs, lent, sevilla, spain

Lent in Sevilla means MUCHO bacalao.
Not much of a sacrifice if you ask me…

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