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Category Archives: culture

los reales alcázares

26 Friday Jun 2020

Posted by azahar in andalucia, culture, sevilla, welcome

≈ 1 Comment

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alcazar, sevilla

alcazar 2020 (1)
Last week I went to the Alcázar with my friend Corinna, the first time either of us had been there for ages. Thing is, it’s free for Sevilla residents but it’s always so bloody crowded that we usually just can’t be bothered. But as they had just reopened the palace and gardens, and it was before foreign tourists were allowed to arrive, we took advantage. And it was lovely. There were a few people, mostly Spanish, but no tour groups, and we often found ourselves with nobody around us in the gardens. Heaven.

Here are some pics…

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oops!

04 Saturday Jan 2020

Posted by azahar in culture, humour

≈ 3 Comments

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lost in translation, sevilla

I was in one of my favourite tapas bars today and heard my waiter pal Jesús say to a couple of customers… “if you wait by the bar I will service you soon”. Oops. And yes, I set him straight, and boy was he embarrassed. Was going to send him a whatsapp with a written reminder but don’t know how to properly translate “to service” into Spanish.  🙂

asociación de la capa

18 Monday Nov 2019

Posted by azahar in culture, sevilla

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capas, customs, sevilla


The Asociación de la Capa was out in full force this past weekend in Sevilla. Their goal is to keep the custom of wearing capes alive. Gotta admit they look sharp.

chasing virgins

11 Monday Nov 2019

Posted by azahar in culture, religion, sevilla

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sevilla, virgen del amparo

Spent the weekend and Monday being a “fixer” for a photographer coming to shoot virgin processions, as well as different virgins in various churches, for a travel magazine. In the end we saw three processions, but for me this was the highlight, especially because it happened by chance. I had stopped in at the Iglesia Magdalena near my house to ask if I could arrange a photo shoot and the lovely archivist Aurora invited us to come “backstage”, as it were, and see them preparing inside the church just before the evening procession on Sunday. Apparently this was the first time they have ever allowed this for people outside the brotherhood. Wow.

This is the Virgen del Amparo and below are a few pics I took backstage, focusing on the costaleros, who are a bit of an obsession with me during Semana Santa. I mean, I just don’t get WHY they do this, especially as many of them end up with lifelong injuries from carrying all that weight on the backs of their necks. This time I even got a short video of them lifting up the platform with Aurora’s husband holding up the skirting so I could get a better look. I am still going through other photos I took over those three days – might share more later.

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san lorenzo 2019

10 Saturday Aug 2019

Posted by azahar in culture, sevilla, spain, tapas, tapas bars

≈ 1 Comment

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antigua abaceria de san lorenzo, san lorenzo, sevilla, tapas

Since my first ever San Lorenzo day celebration six years ago this has become an annual event for me. Ramón and Mari Carmen of the Antigua Abacería de San Lorenzo host the celebration on August 10th, in honour of the patron saint of cooks and chefs, and namesake of both their barrio and bar.

As always, a variety of grilled flesh were on offer throughout the afternoon, along with a typical white wine punch from Huelva called ponché alosnero. I particularly liked the boat full of nécoras (velvet crabs) on display though I cannot eat them whole as instructed by Ramón. It was also a clever way of incorporating their August beach theme with the saint day celebrations. Good times.

The martyr San Lorenzo was put to a slow and painful death on top of a large gridiron with live coals beneath it and, the legend concludes that, after enduring the pain for a very long time he made his famous cheerful remark, “I’m well done. Turn me over!”.

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