Category Archives: sevilla

rosario revisited

25 Tuesday Aug 2020

Posted by in friends, sevilla, tapas, tapas bars

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I first met Rosario in the spring of 2018 when I stopped in at Bodega San José, which she has been running, first with her husband and then her children, for over 60 years. I’d been there before, but as I wanted to add it to Sevilla Tapas I did my usual photos and chat thing. And well, what a woman! I immediately got a girl crush on her and since then would stop in to say hola and listen to her stories while she held my hands in hers.

So of course I was concerned about her and the fate of the bar in the wake of Covid, and finally managed to visit there this past weekend. I wasn’t even sure if they had reopened but wanted to stop by on the off chance and ask about Rosario. And not only was the bar open but there was Rosario!

Turns out she’s been working there every day since lockdown was lifted at the end of June, making her amazing boquerones al vinagre and THAT tortilla de patatas. What a woman. She told me she turned 90 on July 14th. I said “What?? You’re 90??” And she said “Well l was born in 1930, you do the math!” 😂 And well that totally made my day, my week… just knowing that she’s okay. Icing on the cake was later when my friend remarked on how Rosario’s face totally lit up when she saw me. I mean, I saw it too but it was nice to know I hadn’t just imagined it.  ❤

meningoencephalitis

24 Monday Aug 2020

Posted by in sevilla

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Nile fever? Seriously? WTF 2020?? Yep, that’s the latest here in Sevilla and – I have read – possibly soon to spread across Spain. Fucking Nile fever caused by mosquitoes from Doñana National Park that have over-reproduced this summer due to high humidity (why are they infected? no idea). And no, these are not normal mosquitoes that tend to only come out at dusk and dawn, apparently these fuckers are out all day long. Though to be honest, haven’t seen any in the city. Yet.

At last count there were 40 cases reported with 23 people hospitalised, 8 in ICU and 2 deaths (both very elderly people). All but one of these cases originated in Coría del Río, a village about 15 kms outside of Sevilla that is located, as the name suggests, on the banks of the river Guadalquivir, which connects to Doñana on its way to the sea.

At first I thought I would have to stop my recently resumed daily river walks, mostly because, well, RIVER. Yes, the same Guadalquivir (arabic for big water – it’s a very big river, second longest in Spain) but further up. Instead I opted to buy some mosquito repellent and spritz that shit all over my arms and legs before heading out.

I mean… it’s easily between 30-35º when I’m out there early afternoon. And I’m not outside any other time. Might end up also buying one of those plug in things for the bedroom. Because I can honestly say that the only times I remember being bitten by a mosquito in Sevilla, in 27 years, has been in my bedroom.

But I mean honestly… Nile fever mosquitoes in the south, murder hornets now in the north. What’s next, a plague of locust? I probably shouldn’t even joke about that…

irony

20 Thursday Aug 2020

Posted by in sevilla, spain, tapas bars, tapas tours

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Oh the irony. First of all there will be no work for me in 2020 so thanks for rubbing that in. Secondly, if this award is so exclusive then why is everyone (and l mean EVERYONE) posting it in their social media?

It’s clearly a crass and obvious way for Trip Advisor to get free publicity from everyone using their platform. They lowered my rating two years ago because l wouldn’t pay 25% commission to use their booking system. Now I’m suddenly an exclusive award winner? Fuck off.

walking the walk

18 Tuesday Aug 2020

Posted by in coronavirus, lockdown, lockdown sevilla, sevilla

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walk restart (1)-001

As of yesterday I have resumed my daily river walks. Well okay, they may not end up being daily, but that’s the plan. And it really does feel good. Of course the walks, like everything else, came to an abrupt halt when we were all locked down mid-March. Then in April I started walking on my rooftop, which actually was fine for awhile. I did try the river walk a month or so ago, but there were so many people out there, most without masks (it’s not mandatory if you’re doing individual sport activities, but frankly with that amount of people it was hardly “individual”) that I didn’t try it again. Until yesterday. To be honest, it’s been too damn hot to go walking, either in the street or on my roof, other than maybe 5 in the morning, but this week it’s somewhat cooler. And since my dodgy shoulder keeps me from doing much exercise at home I’ve gone back to walking.

Need to get my timing down though. If I go out too early (peak coolish hours) then EVERYONE will be out there, gasping and panting their droplets all over the place as they run or cycle by WAY TOO CLOSE. Also, when I finished it would be too early to reward myself with a frosty cold beer. So I am thinking maybe leave here at 11.30 and finish up around 1.00? It is definitely beer o’clock by then and still not the hottest time of the day. Let’s see how that works out.

Of course this would mean going out EVERY DAY, which is something I have been avoiding like, well, the plague. I have already started going out once a week for lunch, which still feels risky to me, but I am taking every precaution. And aside from taking out the rubbish and occasional grocery shopping that’s really been it. So how risky is going out for a daily walk? And yeah I don’t have to have a beer every time, which would cut down on close contact with people, but man that frosty beer feels so good going down when I’m all hot and thirsty. And I get to say hi to my favourite bar guys. So I guess I’ll just play it by ear. The cases here (and everywhere) are rising daily again… second wave coming?

walk restart (2)

mask with a message

14 Friday Aug 2020

Posted by in coronavirus, sevilla, spain, tapas bars

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stop

Went out for a cold beer at La Bodega Alfalfa today and noticed that Javier was wearing a different mask than the rest of his colleagues. At first I thought it was the (now) usual wait staff mask with the name of the bar embroidered on it. But then I saw it said STOP RACISMO. Javi told me his wife had bought a set, including ones that said BLACK LIVES MATTER and I CAN’T BREATHE. He then proceeded to explain to me who George Floyd was and how those had been his last words. And I said, yeah I know.

Imagine time travelling back a few months and telling Mr Floyd that soon there would be a Spanish barman speaking his name and standing by him. I mean yes of course, all the protests, all the everything, would have blown his mind I’m sure. But it touched me today to see this one personal protest still happening, far from where it all started. Well done, Javier!