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Category Archives: sevilla

las edades de tío pepe

24 Tuesday Sep 2019

Posted by azahar in andalucia, sevilla, sherry

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andalucía sabor, cuatro palmas, sevilla, sherry, sherry lover, tio pepe

The Cuatro Palmas (four palms) is an annual limited selection of a small number of the very best casks of Tio Pepe Fino sherries from Bodega González Byass in Jerez de la Frontera, which are usually publicly presented to the sherry and hospitality trades and selected press in November.

This year’s selections will be made later this week by Antonio Flores, Gonzalez Byass’ master winemaker, and master of wine Peter Liem and, as always, will be bottled “en rama”, without filtration or clarification.

I was fortunate enough to attend a tasting of these incredible wines at Andalucía Sabor, called The Ages of Tío Pepe, which included the “mosto” from this year’s harvest, Tío Pepe en rama (bottled last May) and the four different Palmas. This past July Cuatro Palmas won the International Wine Challenge “Champion of Champions” Trophy and the title of Best Wine in the World.

The tasting was led by Antonio Flores with his usual blend of passion and poetry. Truly one of the most charismatic of “sherry whisperers”, Antonio took us through the six ages of Tío Pepe from “infancy” to “wise old age” and had us compare each age with the previous ones to appreciate the development of each stage. A delicious and educational process. Looking forward to trying this year’s selection.

  • Una Palma is a 6 year old Fino selected from three casks, out of a total of 142, that exemplifies the evolution of the style.
  • Dos Palmas is an 8 year old Fino selected from just two casks out of 150, reflecting the elegance of a well aged wine.
  • Tres Palmas is a 10 year old Fino selected from a single cask at the limit of the biological ageing process.
  • Cuatro Palmas iis a Fino that has passed to being an amontillado, and is selected from one of just six casks that have been ageing in González Byass for more than 50 years. It reflects the ability of Tío Pepe to evolve over time. Only half the cask is bottled.

juan antonio

21 Saturday Sep 2019

Posted by azahar in restaurants, sevilla, tapas, tapas bars

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bars, people, sevilla, tapas

This seems to be my week for meeting charming elderly gentlemen. I went to update my review of Bodega San Lorenzo after hearing that it was under new management. Happily the interior of this venerable bar, founded in 1864, has remained visually the same after a bit of sprucing up (and nice new bathrooms!), along with a few changes to the menu, notably a more complete wine list.

Anyhow, while I was there waiting for my friend Lucy to join me I took some photos and ended up talking with Juan Antonio, who was enjoying a midday vermouth while reading his paper.  In a very short while I learned that he is 78 (his birthday was two days ago), has lived in the barrio for 25 years, lives alone but has a daughter who looks in on him daily, and we also touched on other topics such as exchanging birthday gifts El Corte Inglés, compression socks, knees (his are much better now, mine not so much), to mention a few. Such a lovely man!

When Lucy arrived we tried a couple of snacky things before heading to our main lunch spot, but I will definitely be back to San Lorenzo to sample more of the menu. Around midday, so that I might run into Juan Antonio again. 🙂

josé pérez conde

19 Thursday Sep 2019

Posted by azahar in art, sevilla, spain

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art, artist, jose perez conde, sevilla, seville

For years I have walked past this man’s window and peered in without trying to be obvious. Even though I reckoned that if he didn’t want people looking in he would close the window (or at least the curtains) but I still didn’t want to be caught out. I mean, most people enjoy peering into open windows and getting a “slice of life” moment from someone else’s life. But this man’s living room is packed full of his artwork, including paintings and sculptures. Most arresting is the massive statue of Jesus in one corner (for awhile it was a Virgin Mary) that dominates the room, and it’s a curious sight to see him casually sitting in his armchair watching TV while passersby stop to have a look.

Anyhow, while I was out walking around with my memories the other day I passed by his house and saw him standing in front of the open window having a cigarette, and for some reason I decided it was time to say hello. And I’m so glad I did! What a lovely man. José Pérez Conde comes from Alosno, a small village in Huelva, and is a renowned painter and sculptor (until then I had no idea he actually MADE the giant virgin and christ figures). We had a nice chat and he told me a bit about himself and his work and, when he found out I was from Canada, he switched to English, taking me totally by surprise. And so now I know a new neighbour and it feels good to be able to greet José now when I walk past.

kiko veneno

18 Wednesday Sep 2019

Posted by azahar in music, sevilla

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concert, kiko veneno, lope de vega teatro, music, sevilla

Kiko Veneno has been part of my Sevilla soundtrack since I first arrived here and last night I got to see him perform at the gorgeous Lope de Vega Theatre. Some of the old songs took me back to younger days… and then I realised something. That as nice as some of those old times were, I think these are now my best times. Well, fat old body and stiff knees aside. I’m actually more ME than I have ever been, I’m doing work that I love, and most days I almost like myself. So thanks for the memories, Kiko, but I think I’ll stay here in the present. It was a fun concert in fab surroundings, and on the way home I stopped for a tapita at Bodeguita Romero, chatting with everyone there. Yep, this is my town.

anniversary lunch at la cochera

17 Tuesday Sep 2019

Posted by azahar in andalucia, food & drink, friends, restaurants, sevilla

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anniversary, bar, friends, la cochera del abuelo, restaurant, sevilla

Part of the “problem” with having a birthday or anniversary fall on a Monday is that a lot of my favourite bars and restaurants are closed that day. I mean, I didn’t do too badly yesterday, hitting up 6 bars (2 on my own, 4 with my friend Corinna) but I had been hoping for a proper celebratory lunch. And then the lovely Cinta got in touch and invited me for an anniversary lunch today at her bistro La Cochera del Abuelo. So I thought what the hell, if I can have Birthday Week (or Month) then I could also do Anniversary Week. Plus I had bought a ticket for a Kiko Veneno concert at the gorgeous Lope de Vega theatre tonight, so all in all it seemed like a perfect day.

When Cinta joined forces with chef Bosco Benitez Ruíz del Pozo earlier this year, La Cochera went from being an events venue to a restaurant offering set tasting menus four evenings a week. A more recent change saw La Cochera grow into being a full-time restaurant with a bistro menu, which I have been wanting to try.

Everything was fabulous, as you can see, and it really was a perfect place to continue celebrating. Last year I had talked with Cinta about booking La Cochera to host a 25th anniversary party, but then things got busy and I didn’t get it organised in time. So I think I’ll wait now and – fingers crossed! – celebrate my 30th anniversary here.

Off to the concert soon! More on that tomorrow.

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