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Category Archives: tapas bars

katie & co

06 Monday Oct 2025

Posted by azahar in sevilla, sherry, spain, tapas, tapas bars, tapas tours

≈ 1 Comment

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sevilla, sherry, tapas, tapas tour

Remember Katie & Paul? We met back in 2023 when Katie (a twitter/insta pal, that’s her on the right) looked me up while they were in town and we spent a lovely sherry-filled afternoon together. Then they came back in February this year for the first Bowland & Bay Sevilla Getaway and last week we did the second one. And you know what? I think we’re getting good at this! Apparently round three is going to happen in March.

Katie runs her adventure food company Bowland & Bay out of Lancashire UK so if you happen to live near there, or will be in the area, look her up. Below a couple of “after” shots from the Sherry Tour on Friday. On Thursday we did a Market and Tapas tour in Triana (both modified from the usual tours to accommodate a larger group and my limited mobility). A job well done!

zombie bars 2.0

30 Tuesday Sep 2025

Posted by azahar in restaurants, sevilla, spain, tapas bars

≈ 1 Comment

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restaurants, sevilla, tapas bars

Remember Zombie Bars? In a nutshell these are classic sevillano bars that close for any number of reasons. In some cases they are pushed out by greedy landlords, in others because the owner retires or dies, and then they are snapped up by vulture corporate groups who do a reno job to spiff the place up and reopen using the same name and even pretend they opened when the original bar did… basically pretending to be the same bar, appropriating its history and profiting from a legacy that doesn’t belong to them. I call them Zombie Bars because it looks like the same bar is still alive, but no, it’s an empty shell, dead inside without the heart and soul of the original people who created it.

Anyhoodle… just when you thought THIS COULDN’T GET ANY WORSE… let me introduce you to Zombie Bars 2.0. Recently two brand new tapas bars that were opened by two different corporate groups here (yes two of the same usual suspects) came to my attention because for some reason they had chosen to use the names of long-closed establishments here, ones that clearly have a history and are fondly remembered by people old enough to remember them. The two bars in question had both been long gone by the time I arrived in Sevilla in 1993.

I can’t decide which is worse. But worse still is they are even being lauded by our city council and even our regional government with awards for how they have “saved” our gastronomic heritage. How exactly? By appropriating family histories for their own profit? By turning a once-beloved tapas bar into a tourist attraction? Because their target market is not locals… it’s all about duping tourists into thinking they are having an “authentic” sevillano experience. Spoiler alert… no they aren’t.

Why not? Because you can maybe try to duplicate an ambiance, and even try to use the old recipes… but you have to wonder. WHY are they doing this? Because if you actually go to these places, the “old recipes” don’t have the same spark, the ambiance feels fake and forced, and the service is mostly young kids getting their first job in hospitality who don’t know anything about the bar or the food, or even how to be waiters. Not their fault. They weren’t given proper training.

I’m not about to name and shame here (don’t want a lawsuit on my hands) but if you’d like to see a selection of non-corporate tapas bars and restaurants in Sevilla, have a look here.

emilio

26 Friday Sep 2025

Posted by azahar in friends, sevilla, tapas bars

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friends, sevilla, tapas bars

I’ve known Emilio Vara Dorado forever… well at least as long as I’ve known the fabulous Casa Moreno (approx 2008 when I finally got up the nerve to walk into what looked like an almost exclusive “neighbours only” spot and, even though I was actually a neighbour, I still felt a bit intimidated). I needn’t have worried. I was immediately made to feel welcome and the Morenos and Emilio have been like family ever since.

Anyhow, it’s Emilio’s birthday today and so, as I had to go to my bank nearby, I decided to hobble over and wish him a happy birthday in person. You may remember him from my previous posts about his lovely personalised “napkin art” (ie handwritten bills) I’ve posted here, and also that time he made a special one for my 30th Sevilla Anniversary.

Well it turns out that 2 pm on a Friday afternoon is not the best time to try and get into Casa Moreno, especially not these days since it’s become an instagram phenomenon (queues of tourists are lined up every opening time). But working my “crutch magic” suddenly everyone was letting me pass to get inside. When Emilio saw me he stopped everything and came over to hold my hands and I wished him the happiest of birthdays. Then we had a little argument about who is the more charming person, me or him (obviously HE is, but he insists I am) and then I had to go. Way too crowded.

With more than 35 years behind the bar Emilio IS Casa Moreno, now into its third generation of the Moreno family. And I don’t know… I just love that I know him. And the Morenos. And all of it.

2000 steps

24 Wednesday Sep 2025

Posted by azahar in beer, sevilla, tapas bars

≈ 2 Comments

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sevilla, spain

Okay, that’s not many steps, and I also didn’t get a chair workout in… but I did buy a light winter jacket that I will probably return and then stopped for Cold Beer O’clock at the brand new Patio San Eloy in my street (they’re a local chain and I love them) and then home again. Some days you just do the best you can because the thought of staying inside for TWO DAYS IN A ROW is just too much. So, at least I got out.

Pam & Gibert

29 Friday Aug 2025

Posted by azahar in food & drink, friends, sevilla, sherry, tapas bars, tapas tours

≈ 1 Comment

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friends, sevilla, tapas tours

Vaughn, Nora Frances, Pam & Gibert

It’s always so lovely when clients become friends. Pam & Gibert were first here in April 2024 and came out with me on both a Flamenco Tour and for a Sherry & Tapas Tasting. We’ve stayed in touch since then and so when I heard they would be stopping in Sevilla briefly at the end of August with another couple we had to do something. But what? I could have offered them a Triana Tour for something different but of course I CAN’T WALK. In fact, the only work available to me since last August has been the tastings because they take place in one bar and I can hobble there and back again at my own snails pace. So then I had a think and put together the “Off The Beaten Path ON CRUTCHES Tour”. And it was actually fabulous.

All the bars were about a five minute walk (ten minute hobble) apart and – most importantly – not far from my house. We started off early at Sevilla’s sherry temple Manolo Cateca in order to get The Table (there’s only one) and while Manolo doesn’t take bookings he agreed to hold the table for me if we got there right at 12.00 noon. Deal! After that a few posh seafood snacks at La Barra de Cañabota followed by the “main course” of traditional tapas at Taberna Zurbarán (who also don’t take bookings but did me a favour). And well, it turned out so well I am tempted to offer it as one of my regular tours, except other than Cañabota I would have to call in a favour each time at the other two places and I don’t want to take advantage. It would work with just two people as we could always squeeze in without having to book everywhere. Hmmm… maybe something to think about.

Anyhow, Pam & Gibert will be back AGAIN next March (“I’m like a bad penny, Shawn”) and I really can’t wait to see them again. Even if just to hear Pam’s wonderful southern accent again… I could listen to her all day.

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