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Category Archives: tapas bars

jueves santo 2025

17 Thursday Apr 2025

Posted by azahar in culture, sevilla, spain, tapas, tapas bars

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semana santa, sevilla, spain, tapas

Today I went out mantilla hunting… love seeing the women dressed in black on Maundy Thursday and Good Friday, so elegant with their black lace mantillas draped over a tall tortoise shell comb. I especially love the older women (some of the younger ones are in tight black mini-dresses with cut-away fronts like… wtf??). The idea is that the women are in mourning because Christ has died, and it’s a lovely tradition when done properly.

As I had to get deep into the Cathedral zone and my old neighbourhood Barrio Santa Cruz to catch the mantilla ladies out in force we ended up stopping in at Casa Román on the off chance they had a free table… and yes they did, a perfect spot by the open door. Half an hour later the place was pretty much mobbed, so we got the timing right. Then on the way home I saw a couple of things that made me, well, sad. So when I got back I started writing about it… look for a new post on Substack tomorrow!

feeling okay now…

16 Wednesday Apr 2025

Posted by azahar in friends, health & happiness, hope, sevilla, tapas bars

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friends, sevilla

​I started off the day more or less okay, though with less sleep than I’d hoped for, and also waking up with a black cloud of “let’s beat up Shawn” hanging over me for not being all I’d hoped to be over the past few days. Without going into details, just a lot of the usual letting myself down stuff and deciding I’m a shit person for always letting myself down… ufff… it was hard to get up.

But I got up! Because Morcilla was looking a bit perkier and I had to prepare her special breakfast of Hill’s ID Prescription Diet, and also dole out a bit for Luna (or I’d never hear the end of it). So a spoonful of this apparently delicious paté for Luna on top of her bics and a fresh bowl of it for Morcilla. Both cats happy.

Then I got on the ol’ laptop, coffee in hand, and started on the usual online stuff. At some point I thought to tell my downstairs neighbour that Morcilla was feeling better and… well fuck me. I got back a pleasant response re: Morcilla but then it was like getting stuck in a time warp of weird.

My neighbour is 80-something as far as I know. She has no family to speak of, so she’s mostly on her own. After I first moved in – summer 2017 – we met up for lunch at a local bar and everything seemed fine. But then things went weird and suddenly I was being accused of being a BAD PERSON and all kinds of other WTF nastiness… all of this happening when I happened to pass her in the entrance. She would literally scream this in my face. And so I backed away…

Over the years there have been goodish and bad times with the neighbour. By goodish I mean she would sometimes stop screaming at me whenever we happened to cross paths. It seems my major crime is that I am not being a Good Neighbour, in that I don’t invite her up for coffee and a chat, that we aren’t always in contact, that (her words) SHE FEELS MORE ALONE WITH ME AS A NEIGHBOUR THAN IF I WASN’T THERE AT ALL.

I mean, fuck. We are in touch on WhatsApp, I am there for her if she actually needs anything, she knows she can call. For example, when she was recently very sick with “a cold” she asked if I had a Covid test at home and could I show her how to use it. So of course I popped down with the test, got it done, it was negative. No problem. But today I was apparently someone who would be better if they didn’t exist. Her words.

Now I know these are the words of a cranky old woman who lives a alone and is in a lot of daily chronic pain and so of course I shouldn’t take this personally. Except I do because they mirror the words I use against myself ALL THE TIME. Without realising it (I think?) she is reinforcing every awful thing I ever think about myself and I end up with that hard knot of anxiety in my belly because of course I’m awful otherwise why else would people keep saying so?

Then I went out with flatmate Peter to have a cold beer and a couple of tapas… just to get out of the house today before the Semana Santa crowds took over. Stopped in at Taberna Zurbarán and – oops! – like many bars during Semana Santa they had removed all chairs and bar stools because of the crowds. 

But when they saw me with my crutches at the end of the bar one of the guys magicked a bar stool for me, saying “don’t tell anybody!” and then other bar staff – totally run off their feet – stopped in their tracks when they saw me and it was all “Hey Shawn, so great to see you!” and then the owner of the bar came over with a tapa on the house (that gorgeous tortilla up there), just because. And then suddenly I felt like, hey I can’t be such a horrible person, otherwise all of these lovely people wouldn’t be so lovely to me. And just like that… my day changed.

People get this notion of me being something I’m not, or rather, they take one part of what they perceive to be me and then blow it all out of proportion to suit their opinion. As if I am only just one thing. But one thing I have learned over the years is that if anyone tells me I “intimidate” them (and this happens a lot!) I basically head for the hills because I already know they’re not seeing me as me and nothing good can come from that bullshit.

BUT… today some lovely people at one of my favourite tapas bars made me feel welcome and special, simply because we know that we just like and appreciate each other. Nothing other than that. Because nothing else matters.

adios bar europa

11 Friday Apr 2025

Posted by azahar in history, sevilla, tapas bars, tourism

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bar europa, sevilla, tapas bars, tourist apartments

Bar Europa was one of the first bars I got to know when I first moved here over 30 years ago. It’s very sad to see it shuttered for good, making way for… you guessed it… more tourist apartments. So much history in this old bar, which recently celebrated its 100th anniversary. Though maybe this is a better end than seeing it turned into yet another zombie bar. Anyhow, am thankful for all the memories.

open sunday & monday

08 Tuesday Apr 2025

Posted by azahar in culture, restaurants, sevilla, spain, substack, tapas, tapas bars

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restaurants, sevilla, substack, tapas bars

The latest on Bitesize Sevilla… A guide to (good) bars and restaurants that are open in Sevilla on Sunday and Monday. Go check it out and give it a “like” (if you like it). And if you really like it consider becoming a free or paid subscriber. Thanks!

Open Sunday & Monday

hannah

25 Tuesday Mar 2025

Posted by azahar in instagram, sevilla, social media, tapas, tapas bars

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food, instagram, sevilla, social media

The other day Hannah got in touch. She’s an American who has been living in Santiago de Compostela and is now spending the winter in Cádiz. She found me on Instagram (her account is called A Hungry Pilgrim) and told me she’d like to meet up. So that’s what we did. First stop was Manolo Cateca for a bit of sherry and then a shortish hobble later we were at Zurbarán. And before we knew it Zurbarán was preparing to close up… time just flew! Anyhow, lovely to meet another food-obsessed pal and hopefully we’ll be seeing each other again, either around Cádiz, here or even in Santiago.

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