Tag Archives: spain

new neighbours!

30 Thursday Aug 2012

Posted by in friends, tapas, twitter

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Today I got to meet more Twitter friends in person – Mark (@inkjockey) and his wife Jo (@missbishopsgate). They were in town celebrating their wedding anniversary and we decided to get together for a drink and a tapita this afternoon before they went home to Estepa. Well, that’s one of their homes, the other is London. And as Estepa is just an hour’s drive from here they are pretty much neighbours. Another cool thing I found out today is that Mark has co-authored a murder mystery called Final de Partido en Córdoba… yes, set in Córdoba! You know, that place I just visited. Anyhow, we had a lovely time and hope to get together next time they come down to their Spanish home. I love Twitter. 🙂

off to córdoba (again)

27 Monday Aug 2012

Posted by in 20th anniversary, culture, spain, summer, work

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So you may recall that two weeks ago I was in a quandary about whether to go on this overnight trip to Córdoba, with Azar being so frail. And one of my problems about waiting to see how the old darling was doing was that I didn’t want to cancel the hotel at the last minute, since I was being invited to stay there. Then about a week ago I realised that I could always go on my own and leave Peter at home to look after Azar, which set my mind at ease. And then this morning came and we took a long look at Azar and thought – he’ll be okay overnight – so now Peter is coming with me. I hope I don’t end up regretting that decision, but the truth is that Azar has been eating well, doing his “business” regularly (though he sometimes misses the box), and drinking plenty of water. He mostly snoozes the days away, waking up to eat and get a cuddle, much as any cat his age would do. Poor thing is pretty much blind and that nasty tumour seems bigger and uglier every day, making it difficult for him to walk. But as he’ll be staying on his own in my bedroom, separated from the other two, he won’t have far to go to get everything he needs.

It’s still a tough decision but my gut tells me that Azar is strong enough right now to be fine on his own from 8 am tomorrow until 6 pm on Wednesday. Now if I can only keep myself from worrying the whole time!

We are going to be staying at the Palacio de Balío Hospes Hotel, which is stunning. They have also arranged for us to enjoy a flamenco guitar concert and dinner there, and we are also invited for breakfast. If it’s anything like the Hospes Hotel here, it should be amazing. But let’s not forget that this is primarily a work trip, which is the other reason Peter really should come along. During the day we’ll be revisiting places we’ve been before so that he can organise a couple of routes for his Seville Concierge day trips. And of course we’ll have to try out a couple of restaurants. When we were there for that day trip in June it was mostly to see the Feria and have a look at the new Patio Museum so I’m looking forward to seeing the Mesquita again, as well as a few other things I’ve never seen that Peter has lined up.

And so now all I have to do is NOT WORRY!

carmona

25 Saturday Aug 2012

Posted by in 20th anniversary, friends, spain, tapas, travel, trips

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[click on collage to enlarge]

A few pics from an impromptu day trip to Carmona with Peter (aka Seville Concierge) and Markus (my friend who runs veoapartment.com). We left Sevilla around 11.30 and got to Carmona about half an hour later. Part of the motive for this trip was so Peter could do some research for his new biz, and both Markus and I will also be able to use some of the images and info collected today. But mostly it was just a lovely day out. Well, except for the bit where Peter got us lost and the other bit when the second tapas bar on my list ended up being closed, but otherwise it was lots of fun. We visited the old fortress, stopped in at the market, tried tapas at two places, walked A LOT through charming streets of whitewashed houses and beautiful old churches and palaces, and then finished off having cake, coffee & cava at the splendid Parador Hotel, a restored 14th century Moorish citadel.

I’ll be doing more of a more detailed write up about Carmona on the azahar Sevilla blog.

What did you do today?

el aljarafe

20 Monday Aug 2012

Posted by in 20th anniversary, food & drink, sevilla, spain, summer, tapas, trips

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El Aljarafe is Arabic for “knoll”, and is the name for the cluster of villages dotting the hills just outside Sevilla. I rarely venture out there other than to go to IKEA (in Castilleja de la Cuesta), mostly because it’s a pain to get to by bus. It would actually be fun to do a day trip to some of the little villages out there some time if I can convince someone with a car to do this with me. But I digress…

I’ve only been to Salteras once, about 12 years ago, when I was invited to a special lunch at one of the “parrilla” restaurants there. About thirty years ago the first one – La Bodega – opened in Salteras and was such a great success that soon other places started copying its “formula” of offering a simple menu based on BBQ grilled meats served with “papas arrugás” and “mojo picón”. These are small potatoes boiled in a small amount of very salty water leaving the skins wrinkled and sparkling with salt, which are then dipped in a spicy Canarian sauce. Soon Salteras was full of these establishments and became THE place to go for fabulous meat & potato meals. Since then the menus have become more extensive while the number of restaurants has diminished. Now there are about five left and yesterday I decided to go out there and try one out.

After a bit of online research I chose La Resolana because I liked the look of their website and I especially liked that they had a “tapas corner”, which meant that Peter and I could try more dishes. So we trekked down to the bus station just in time to catch the 1pm to Salteras and when the bus driver pulled out of the station and put on some rock-a-billy music it started to feel like a proper Road Trip. We got held up for awhile in a village just outside of Camas when the main road became blocked by a funeral procession. I’d never seen this before and got one of those odd “I’m living in Spain” moments as I watched a crowd of at least fifty people walking slowly behind a hearse, with half a dozen pallbearers in the lead. It was a sad and beautiful sight.

If you go to Salteras from Sevilla by car it would take you about ten minutes. The bus takes about 25 minutes (or 35 with funeral) and we stopped in places I didn’t even know existed. Luckily we had been told which stop in Salteras to get off at, which ended up being just a few minutes walk to La Resolana. And well, we had a wonderful lunch. As it was a hot afternoon in August the place was pretty quiet, though I’m told it’s always packed out during the rest of the year. I can see why. The service was great, the food excellent, and at one point when a Twitter friend asked me exactly which part of the pig “pluma” comes from (yes, I tweeted the whole lunch) one of the chefs brought me out a book showing me the different pork cuts. After that we got some boozy sorbets on the house and I got to take photos of everyone for Sevilla Tapas. If you want to see all the great stuff we had to eat then have a look here:
La Resolana

It was only after I got home that I realised this had actually been another of my 20th anniversary day trip! And I’m now keen to explore El Aljarafe a bit more. If I can find someone to take me…

[also posted on the azahar sevilla blog]

trial run tapas & market tour

25 Wednesday Jul 2012

Posted by in food & drink, tapas, tapas tours, work

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So remember how I came up with the idea to start doing Market & Tapas Tours? This actually came about a couple of weeks ago after getting together with Lauren from Madrid who has just started doing food tours there. We spent an afternoon going out for tapas here in Sevilla and talking about our tours and various foodie projects, and that’s when I started thinking about doing something similar here, but as a combination of a market and tapas tour.

Last week Kathy came out with me to do some “market research” (heh) and it was after we finished and were out having tapas together that the Ronda weekend plan was hatched. Anyhow, even though I had figured out where I wanted to take people I still needed to do a “trial run” to work out timing and pricing. But of course I needed guineapigs volunteers who would be interested in doing a tour at cost price (just paying for what was consumed). But as almost everyone I know in Sevilla is away on holidays at the moment I reckoned I’d just do a trial run at the beginning of September, since so many market stalls are closed for summer holidays in August.

Then I got a request for a Market & Tapas Tour from someone who’d seen them mentioned on my website. Well, duh!  I had forgotten to say they’d be starting in September. And I was about to write Lauren back and tell her it wouldn’t be possible and then I thought… hey! Maybe they’d like to take the very first Market & Tapas Tour at “cost price” with me and Peter? And it turned out they thought this was a great idea and so off we went this morning. Kathy was also able to meet us briefly for a snack and a chat before leaving us at our second market stop.

I think it went really well, though of course there are things I want to fine-tune, and going out with visitors rather than residents was also a real bonus. Lauren and Peter were great company and were also very interested in the food culture here, and so asked loads of questions. So I think it was a win-win thing for everyone concerned, and I also realised that this new tour is going to be a LOT of fun!