Wish you were here!
postcard from málaga
29 Thursday May 2025
29 Thursday May 2025
28 Wednesday May 2025
Posted in getaways, Malaga, malaga getaway, spain, trips

I don’t know if my present state of packing frenzy means I need to travel more often or that I should never travel again. And yes I KNOW it’s only for two nights (well, maybe three) but this hasn’t stopped me from rethinking everything constantly since a few days ago. First of all, I don’t travel light. I mean, I’ll bring a small suitcase but it’ll be packed as full as it can be. The other thing is that the train leaves at 8.00 am tomorrow, which means getting up at stupid o’clock after, of course, having barely slept. Anyhow… I have to go now and finish packing. Next stop… Málaga!
09 Friday May 2025

The last time I was in Málaga was in December 2019 for what had become my annual pre-Christmas visit in what used to be my second favourite city in Spain, although I would often go a couple of other times during the year. Well okay, I did land briefly in Málaga in March 2020 just before YOU KNOW WHAT but was quickly whisked out of town by Victor to the Axarquía in order to do research on some wineries there for a Decanter article. I arrived home two days before lockdown. To be honest I haven’t travelled much since then, and still haven’t been outside Spain. Anyhow, I am now finally going back to Málaga.
At first it was a plan to just go overnight to the Vinos de España Una Pasión event, which takes place each year in a different Andalusian city. Last year the 10th anniversary edition was held in Jerez and I think this may have been my last trip anywhere (BC – before crutches). Then I remembered that my friend Jeffrey has been imploring me to visit his new restaurant Andala in Marbella, even offering to pick me up in Málaga and lettng me stay at their spare apartment there. Which of course I’m very excited to visit. So okay then… two nights! A plan was coming together.
The first thing I checked was train tickets. A stupid early fast train from Sevilla would get me into Málaga about an hour before the event, so okay. And Peter wanted to come too, so then the plan was that he’d come overnight and when Jeffrey picked me up the next afternoon he’d head back to Sevilla. This also meant the cats would only be left on their own one night. So… train tickets were purchased. Then I booked the event tickets in case they sold out. And then I started looking around for somewhere to spend the night and OMG…
I mean, I know it’s been a while but hotel prices have gone totally crazy in Málaga, though I guess this is probably true of everywhere. I just haven’t been staying in hotels lately. The cheapest places I could find, including a hotel offering sleeping pods (!!!), were honestly too depressing for words. A couple of “okay I’m just there to sleep” considerations were about 120€ but I just couldn’t do it. So in the end I splashed out on a very “just okay” hotel not far from the train station for 180€ (last week it had been 160€ so I decided to just go for it before the price went up again).
I also went for it because it looks like I may be getting a writing commission that could mean me staying down south another day or so, and so it’s a bit of a gamble. I mean, I can’t afford this! But I also kind of need to do it. Especially because I’m equally excited and scared about going. I don’t know how it’s going to be with the crutches. Even with Peter and Jeffrey there to help out I’ll end up at the train station a couple of times trying to drag my suitcase along with one crutch tucked under my arm and the other holding me up. As for getting on and off the damn train… I shall rely on the kindness of strangers.
16 Wednesday Dec 2020
Posted in andalucia, christmas, Malaga, malaga getaway
Tags

Quite bittersweet stuff on social media this week with those MEMORIES they pop into your timeline so you can remember where you were on this day however many years ago. I mean, they are usually quite nice, but this year – and especially this week – I am just reminded almost daily that I SHOULD BE IN MÁLAGA.
I don’t actually remember the last time I didn’t go to Málaga in December, even for a couple of days. It’s become such an annual thing… Málaga in the summer and Málaga at Christmas. Needless to say I didn’t get there this past summer either. And in theory I could go as of this Friday, when they relax the travel restrictions so that we can now travel between provinces within our regions. In fact a friend very generously offered to pay for my train fare. But I just can’t. First of all… don’t wanna die! And of course I would not risk infecting other people outside my small living bubble (not an official bubble, but it’s somewhat bubblish).
Since… October??… I started only going out maybe a couple of times a week. During the summer and even September things felt almost normal in spite of the restrictions and even I was feeling less threatened by the virus, while of course taking all the precautions when out. But then numbers started climbing again and I decided to stay home more. Turned out that Andalucía in November had the highest number of new Covid cases and DEATHS since April, so that was probably a good decision. For those who don’t know, I am high risk for catching this fucker, with compromised immune system due to previous cancer and chemo.
12 Thursday Mar 2020
Posted in alternatravels, getaways, Malaga, malaga getaway, wine

After the charming village setting of Dimobe and Viñedos Verticales, and the sweeping views stretching out below the elegant slate structure that houses Betomiz, I didn’t know what to expect next when Susana, owner of Bodega Capuchinas Viejas met me near Málaga to take me out to their cortijo near Antequera. Unlike the other two places I’d visited high up in the Axarquía, Capuchinas Viejas is located on a sprawling 20 hectare estate, where they grow both olives and grapes, for their own use as well as to sell.
The García Segura family has owned the estate since the beginning of the 80s, when Susana’s father purchased an abandoned monastery, and it remains very much a family-run venture, with respect for both the land and local traditions.

I was quite awestruck as Susana let me inside through the front gate (the place is surrounded by giant Mastiff guard dogs) and then continued to open massive door after door that opened onto magical courtyards and gardens, a bird coop that houses peacocks, gorgeous event rooms, the bodega itself, and family apartments. This is clearly a labour of love.