Category Archives: tapas bars

adiós pasos largos

26 Wednesday Aug 2020

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Last Sunday I was out for a walk and, well, FUCK IT WAS HOT, so I thought I’d take a detour on my way home to see if one of my fave places Taberna de Pasos Largos was open for a cold beer (as it used to always be open on Sundays). Well, not only was it closed… IT WAS GONE. I mean, totally gone. Empty. And my heart broke a little, once again.

The toll of this fucking virus can be seen everywhere, but in my own world I am (so far) mostly affected by the restrictions it puts on me, including having lost my job and only source of income, as well as the loss of so many wonderful bars and restaurants. And this time I lost something very special. I don’t even know what to say, other than I will miss Paco, Pepe and Isi very much. Yes the food was great, the wine too, but I will mostly miss just being there with them. So sad.

Paco & Pepe

Isi

Isi

rosario revisited

25 Tuesday Aug 2020

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I first met Rosario in the spring of 2018 when I stopped in at Bodega San José, which she has been running, first with her husband and then her children, for over 60 years. I’d been there before, but as I wanted to add it to Sevilla Tapas I did my usual photos and chat thing. And well, what a woman! I immediately got a girl crush on her and since then would stop in to say hola and listen to her stories while she held my hands in hers.

So of course I was concerned about her and the fate of the bar in the wake of Covid, and finally managed to visit there this past weekend. I wasn’t even sure if they had reopened but wanted to stop by on the off chance and ask about Rosario. And not only was the bar open but there was Rosario!

Turns out she’s been working there every day since lockdown was lifted at the end of June, making her amazing boquerones al vinagre and THAT tortilla de patatas. What a woman. She told me she turned 90 on July 14th. I said “What?? You’re 90??” And she said “Well l was born in 1930, you do the math!” 😂 And well that totally made my day, my week… just knowing that she’s okay. Icing on the cake was later when my friend remarked on how Rosario’s face totally lit up when she saw me. I mean, I saw it too but it was nice to know I hadn’t just imagined it.  ❤

irony

20 Thursday Aug 2020

Posted by in sevilla, spain, tapas bars, tapas tours

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Oh the irony. First of all there will be no work for me in 2020 so thanks for rubbing that in. Secondly, if this award is so exclusive then why is everyone (and l mean EVERYONE) posting it in their social media?

It’s clearly a crass and obvious way for Trip Advisor to get free publicity from everyone using their platform. They lowered my rating two years ago because l wouldn’t pay 25% commission to use their booking system. Now I’m suddenly an exclusive award winner? Fuck off.

mask with a message

14 Friday Aug 2020

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stop

Went out for a cold beer at La Bodega Alfalfa today and noticed that Javier was wearing a different mask than the rest of his colleagues. At first I thought it was the (now) usual wait staff mask with the name of the bar embroidered on it. But then I saw it said STOP RACISMO. Javi told me his wife had bought a set, including ones that said BLACK LIVES MATTER and I CAN’T BREATHE. He then proceeded to explain to me who George Floyd was and how those had been his last words. And I said, yeah I know.

Imagine time travelling back a few months and telling Mr Floyd that soon there would be a Spanish barman speaking his name and standing by him. I mean yes of course, all the protests, all the everything, would have blown his mind I’m sure. But it touched me today to see this one personal protest still happening, far from where it all started. Well done, Javier!

san lorenzo 2020

10 Monday Aug 2020

Posted by in culture, history, sevilla, spain, tapas, tapas bars, welcome

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san lorenzo 2020

Today is the Día de San Lorenzo. In case you don’t know, the martyr San Lorenzo was put to a slow and painful death on top of a large gridiron with live coals beneath it and, the legend concludes that, after enduring the pain for a very long time he made his famous cheerful remark, “I’m well done on this side. Turn me over!”.

This is the first time in over five years that I haven’t attended the hectic San Lorenzo Day festivities at the Antigua Abacería de San Lorenzo. Because of Covid, Ramón and Carmen took the decision not to reopen their bar until September. In any case, this celebration is not one that lends itself to social distancing. The place is packed all afternoon long, standing room only, with Ramón passing around platters of grilled flesh (sardines, chicken legs, sausages, etc) with everyone drinking a punch from Huelva called ponche alosnero.

It’s always a crazy time and I miss it.   ❤