bilbao memories

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This photo popped up in my azahar Instagram Memories today, and I actually got a bit weepy. It had been such a great day, checking out the Guggenheim in Bilbao, walking around town, looking for tapas bars that were open (top tip: do not visit Bilbao the week after their Semana Grande in August), later having cocktails on the rooftop of the Gran Hotel Domine at sunset overlooking the Guggenheim and the river. It was part of my first Basque Getaway, visiting Bilbao and San Sebastián.

I guess what got me choked up was the feeling of not knowing if or when this will ever be possible again. I still can’t even get on a train to go to Jerez or Cádiz on a day trip. But today I was whisked back to Bilbao, to the streets, the crazy architecture, the fab pintxo bars, the market, the river, getting lost in a dodgy part of town late at night, the museum of columns. What also got me choked up was that back then, just two years ago, there was no way of knowing what would happen to us in 2020. Hell, same goes for last December, but…

I dunno. Today I saw tweet by the regional government boasting that Andalucía had received the highest volume of travellers and hotel overnight stays in the country during the month of July and had established itself as a preferred destination for Spanish tourists. Meanwhile Andalucía has also registered the highest numbers of the pandemic with 909 cases in 24 hours, including 4 deaths. Coincidence?

I’m just so sad these days. Nobody seems to be in charge. People are doing WHATEVER because there is no direction. And my life… I honestly don’t know. Back in April I was doing okay by not thinking too far ahead, just getting by day by day. But the truth is that I could lose my home and that’s terrifying to me. So seeing these Bilbao pics was so bittersweet. Back when things were good we never thought things could ever change so much, or so quickly.

instagram 6000!

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So yay! I have got up to 6,000 followers on my Sevilla Tapas Instagram. Yeah I know, not exactly INFLUENCER numbers 😉 but I always like to celebrate a click over to the next K. I’m actually much more active on Insta and Twitter than I am on Facebook, so if you’re interested pop over and say hola.

Twitter: Sevilla Tapas  /  azahar
Instagram: Sevilla Tapas / azahar

prepped

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Woke up yesterday morning with what distinctly felt like a mosquito bite on my right hand. And I just thought what an idiot I was! Yes, okay I had gone out and bought the spray to protect me outside when I do my river walks, but I hadn’t taken into consideration the most relevant issue… which is that I don’t ever remember being bitten by a mosquito in Sevilla when I’ve been outside.

What I DO remember are those long hot summer nights when I wake up in the wee hours to THAT SOUND and then later on end up with nasty itchy bite mounds all over my hands, specifically on the knuckles. Well, I hope it’s not too late but, as well as the spray-on DEET, I now have those plug-in mosquito things that are supposed to be “safe for children and pets”.

adiós pasos largos

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Last Sunday I was out for a walk and, well, FUCK IT WAS HOT, so I thought I’d take a detour on my way home to see if one of my fave places Taberna de Pasos Largos was open for a cold beer (as it used to always be open on Sundays). Well, not only was it closed… IT WAS GONE. I mean, totally gone. Empty. And my heart broke a little, once again.

The toll of this fucking virus can be seen everywhere, but in my own world I am (so far) mostly affected by the restrictions it puts on me, including having lost my job and only source of income, as well as the loss of so many wonderful bars and restaurants. And this time I lost something very special. I don’t even know what to say, other than I will miss Paco, Pepe and Isi very much. Yes the food was great, the wine too, but I will mostly miss just being there with them. So sad.

Paco & Pepe

Isi

Isi

rosario revisited

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I first met Rosario in the spring of 2018 when I stopped in at Bodega San José, which she has been running, first with her husband and then her children, for over 60 years. I’d been there before, but as I wanted to add it to Sevilla Tapas I did my usual photos and chat thing. And well, what a woman! I immediately got a girl crush on her and since then would stop in to say hola and listen to her stories while she held my hands in hers.

So of course I was concerned about her and the fate of the bar in the wake of Covid, and finally managed to visit there this past weekend. I wasn’t even sure if they had reopened but wanted to stop by on the off chance and ask about Rosario. And not only was the bar open but there was Rosario!

Turns out she’s been working there every day since lockdown was lifted at the end of June, making her amazing boquerones al vinagre and THAT tortilla de patatas. What a woman. She told me she turned 90 on July 14th. I said “What?? You’re 90??” And she said “Well l was born in 1930, you do the math!” 😂 And well that totally made my day, my week… just knowing that she’s okay. Icing on the cake was later when my friend remarked on how Rosario’s face totally lit up when she saw me. I mean, I saw it too but it was nice to know I hadn’t just imagined it.  ❤