my happy place…

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… or at least one of them. This is Rafael’s jamón cutting station at Bar Las Teresas. I’ve been coming to this bar for over 24 years now and, while I have seen some changes over the years (not all of them good), it remains one of the places where I feel relaxed and at home. Like I’m with family.

In fact, this is something I hear a lot from women from other countries – how they feel so comfortable going out to bars on their own here, unlike back home. And it’s true. You don’t feel weird or worry about being hit on. More than likely you’ll end up chatting with the people sitting next to you at the bar, though if you want to just enjoy your tapas and wine on your own, that’s also quite acceptable.

Anyhow, I’ve spent many a happy hour sitting at this very spot, watching Ramón deftly wielding his cutting knife, chatting with the barmen, enjoying lovely tapas. I’m often asked which is my favourite tapas bar in Sevilla, which is an impossible question for me to answer, but this is definitely one of them.

#ilovemyjob

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Good times on a recent Gourmet Tapas Tour. There is a certain amount of unpredictability and a bit of an extra challenge with the gourmet tours. Actually “gourmet” isn’t really the right term, but I haven’t found a better one. Because it’s not about going to posh places with wanky gastrobar food – it’s about tasting the best of what Sevilla has to offer, from tiny hole-in-the-wall bars to more sophisticated spots (and all family run). Basically people pay as they go, so I don’t have to stay within a budget, and we can go to as many bars as they want. The record (so far) is 7 tapas bars in 5 hours. This one was 5 bars in 5 hours, including a penúltima, with a super fun group of 4 friends – a lovely way to spend a sunny afternoon. I love my job.  🙂

under cover

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Back in early September 1993 I came to Sevilla for the first time, taking the bus down from Salamanca, in the naive hope of finding an apartment over the course of one weekend. I was so broke that I stayed in the cheapest of hostels for those two nights, located up a small alley, and spent the days poring over newspaper ads for possible places to live. Armed with a pocketful of change I called landlords from various payphones, only to be told they didn’t rent to foreigners. Finally one person said they could show me a studio apartment next to the cathedral. He was a friend of the owner, who was out of town. Fine. This was my final day in town and I was feeling a bit desparate.

We met that evening in Plaza Salvador and I got my first impressive glimpse of the Cathedral, all lit up (I had been too busy house hunting to do any site seeing). And then I was shown a lovely top floor “atico” studio apartment, with a little terrace and a fabulous view of the Cathedral. Not only was it about three times more than I could afford, there was also the not-so-small matter of a deposit, which I actually didn’t have. This didn’t seem to deter the friend, who took me down to the nearest phone booth to call the owner. Luckily he spoke excellent English so I could explain my situation to him better (after a year in Salamanca I was still far from fluent in Spanish). And to my surprise the owner said “Oh, don’t worry about that. You just come down on the 16th and I’ll be there with the keys”. Thinking back, I’m surprised I just took him at his word as there was no written agreement. Then again, I also can’t believe I thought I could go to Sevilla with no deposit money and somehow secure an apartment in one weekend. But I did, and it all worked out.

What’s that got to do with this photo, you ask? Well, it’s the very first thing that struck me as different on my first day in Sevilla – the awnings stretching across the narrow streets in the centre of town, providing much need shade during the summer months. Somehow I found them completely charming – and still do – and I knew I had chosen the right place to live.

under pressure…

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So the other day Peter @SVQconcierge and I stopped in for a tapa on the way back from Andalucía Sabor and we were very disappointed in the quality of the fish, especially for a place that specializes in salt cod. It was tough and chewy, not nice at all. I mentioned it to the waiter and he said he’d let them know in the kitchen. Meh. We paid and left.

Later I  posted the photo on Instagram, mentioning how disappointing the tapas had been. Next day I got a call from the owner of the bar pleading with me to “modify” the post – he was clearly very upset that I hadn’t spoken to him first, and feared this negative post would affect his business. Well, first of all, the post was in English and the majority of my followers are not locals. Secondly, well, it was my opinion. I don’t often post a negative comment about places, but this experience had annoyed me.

After a second call from the bar owner I decided to just delete the post. It wasn’t worth “modifying” and I didn’t want to be pestered anymore, though afterwards I felt a bit annoyed with myself that I caved. Had it been a Sevilla Tapas review I wouldn’t have changed a word, but I’m still not sure I did the right thing.

Anyhow, after deleting the post the bar owner called me again, thanking me, and saying I would be invited to their next “new menu” tasting. Uh… no thanks.