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Tag Archives: santiago de compostela

one year ago today…

21 Monday Aug 2017

Posted by azahar in friends, getaways, travel, trips

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Tags

friends, getaways, santiago de compostela, spain

… I was enjoying Beer O’clock (and pulpo!) with these two lovelies, Anna & Jorge (aka @thekilomEATers) in Santiago de Compostela. I haven’t done nearly as much travelling this summer as I did last (Málaga, London, Madrid, Santiago), mostly because of THE MOVE, but tomorrow I am taking off for another Málaga Getaway. Looking forward to getting back to my “second home”.

adiós airbnb!

23 Friday Sep 2016

Posted by azahar in travel, trips

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

airbnb, holiday hell, santiago de compostela, travel

airbnbWARNING: full-on rant ahead.

You may recall that I booked a small AirBnB apartment in Santiago de Compostela back in June (my trip there was to be the last week of August). The place looked basic but cheerful enough, and was a decent price, so what the heck. I wasn’t planning to be in the apartment a lot, but while there I need to work. So just before arriving (after having spent most of August without WiFi) I got in touch with the owner, Elena, to ensure there would be good WiFi so I could work. She assured me it was a strong signal, and in fact, this turned out to be true. But as for the rest…

One thing led to another after I arrived until I was unceremoniously ousted from my rental apartment… but I am getting ahead of myself.

Let’s go back to my arrival. My friends Anna and Jorge had picked me up at the airport and my first glance at the place to quickly drop off bags after picking up keys at the bar next door – Elena is basically an absentee landlady – we immediately went out for lunch. When I finally got back to the apartment to unpack and make myself at home I was dismayed by the fact that I could only open the windows for fresh air if I also left the blinds up. As I was at street-level, this not only provided me with a charming full-frontal view of the garbage bins, but it meant that anybody walking by could look straight into the apartment. So I had to keep the blinds down with the windows only slightly cracked open.

Thus, my first request was to ask Elena if she could bring over an electric fan so at least there would be a bit of air movment – I said that I knew and understood that places in Santiago didn’t tend to have air-con, but some ventilation would be welcome. I was told that she wasn’t in town, and by the time she’d be in town again the temperatures would have returned to normal (they didn’t, and this also didn’t address the no-ventilation issue).

That night I got into bed (there were two single beds in the apartment) and that’s really when the whole apartment from hell nightmare began. Aside from having soft spongy mattresses, the cheap metal bed frames SQUEAKED like crazy with every movement. I couldn’t sleep at all unless I lay perfectly still … getting the picture?

Next day I contacted Elena again about the spongy mattresses and the squeaky bed frame and I was told she had actually changed mattresses to make them softer after a tenant had claimed they were too hard (yeah, right…), at the same time saying she couldn’t take everyone’s mattress preferences into consideration, and then she suggested that perhaps the frames were squeaking from “old age”.

Really? A day later she told me she’d recently had to replace the frames after someone else had complained about one falling down on her. So clearly, these were not old frames, just cheapy shitty ones. And ANYHOW… if you are renting out an apartment for people to sleep in, don’t you think you should splash out a bit to make sure at least the beds are comfortable? In any case, as Elena was still out of town she said there was nothing she could do about this during my stay.

But let’s go back to my first morning (after next to no sleep). I got into the shower, was pleased there was decent water pressure and then… GAAAAHHH… got totally grossed out when I reached for my shower gel (which I’d put on the shelf thingy in the shower) and found gluey-wet cakes of OTHER PEOPLE’S LEFTOVER SOAP on the shelf. Seriously. Half-melted cakes of other people’s USED soap.

This led me to check out the rest of the apartment a bit more carefully. I discovered that the kitchen cupboards were not clean – they had bread crumbs, spilled sugar, various stains. And the kettle on the counter top was totally covered in grease spatters. Which of course made me wonder if the apartment had actually been cleaned since the last tenants… but hey, it gets “even better”.

I got back in touch with Elena to mention all of these issues, and her response was that I go and stay somewhere else. Really? I’d booked this place in June. It was now the last week in August – peak tourist season in Santiago. Was I really about to find anywhere else in town that didn’t cost three times as much? So I decided to bite the bullet and just stay on.

I had arrived on a Sunday. And I had put up with all the other crap until I woke up in the middle of the night (Wednesday-Thursday) to find a puddle of water oozing out of the base of the toilet. So of course on Thursday morning I got in touch with Elena, who was now back in Santiago, to tell her about this problem. She ACTUALLY ASKED ME if I would be there to let the plumber in during the day. Seriously?? I was paying a fee as a guest at this place – why the fucking fuck would I have to suddenly be responsible for letting in the fucking plumber??? (excuse the LANGUAGE, you can tell how much this absurd situation was going from bad to worse).

And so… while I was out and about in Santiago that day, Elena and the “plumber” came and decided there was absolutely no problem. Except that when I got home there was still a puddle of TOILET WATER oozing out of the base of the toilet (gross!). I took this photo and sent it to Elena. She then informed me that if I wanted the plumber to return then I would have to wait for him myself.

Now let’s back up a minute. I was on holiday. I had paid in advance, in good faith, for a basic holiday apartment near the centre of town. WHY was it suddenly MY responsibility to wait for the plumber??

But okay, I did. I waited. The plumber showed up. And the plumber was quite possibly the stupidest individual I’d ever had the misfortune to encounter in my life – even worse, he was an idiot with a chip on his shoulder. He started off (of course) by saying there was nothing wrong. Then I pointed to the puddle of water next to the toilet and suggested he have a look at the sealing ring under the toilet. Well, he then got a bit hysterical at this point, informing me (in so many unpleasant words) that I wasn’t in fact a plumber and that he would deal with this in his own way.

Eventually he did remove the toilet base, and the rubber ring, but then he left the ring to one side, replaced the toilet to its place (without the screws!) and said we could “wait and see” for a couple of days if the problem continued. WTF? When I suggested that this was really not actually a solution and that I was a paying guest, his reply was to inform me that “This isn’t a 5-star hotel!”. Then the so-called plumber grabbed the mop, started shoving it violently into the toilet (why? no idea) and then he triumphantly said to me “YOU SEE, IT’S NOT BLOCKED” at which point he removed the mop from the toilet and proceeded to slosh toilet water all over the bathroom floor. I was so disgusted at the point I just wanted this moron to leave, and so I told him there was nothing more to be done. And he left.

Then I took all the towels in the apartment and, using a disinfectant product I found in the kitchen, managed to clean the bathroom floor to a reasonable extent. And then I went out… needed a stiff drink at that point, and also something to eat.

It was while I was out that evening when I received “notice” from Elena (around 9 pm) that she was terminating our Air BnB contract, and would refund the last two nights, but I would have to be OUT the next morning. Srsly?

As luck would have it I came across a lovely family run hotel in the centre of town and I gave them a call. Bear in mind, this was at 10.30 pm and I still had no idea where I’d be staying the next day. Well, they couldn’t have been more welcoming, and I was ensured that I’d be given one of their best rooms.

Meanwhile the Air BnB helpline had been in touch with me, and were actually very helpful. They helped me get an extra day’s refund from Dread Elena (since my last day at her place had basically been HELL) and they also offered me a good-will compensation, which helped pay for the extra expense of getting a last minute hotel in Santiago in peak season. I was happy with that solution and was willing to let things go at that. As things had been settled “out of court” so to speak, I decided to take the high ground and not even leave a negative review on the site and just put the whole holiday from hell experience behind me.

But apparently Elena is a vindictive piece of work and preferred to take the low road. She actually posted this “review” on my AirBnB profile, accusing me of planning all this in advance. WTAF? Here it is, basically lies from start to finish…

With Shawn I have been the victim of a devised in advance plan. From the outset , she requested e-mail communication outside the normal channel of the web, something that surprised me. From the first day she arrived, she complained of a lot of pushy and arrogant way, so my answer was possible to cancel your reservation and seek alternative accommodation, but refused with various excuses. Several days later, she complained of a breakdown of water in the bathroom where there was none, she was sending photos bath full of water to the website, when I went with a plumber and we found nothing broken, she wasn’t in the apartment, she kept insisting and it was the plumber again when she was in the apartment, she forced to plumber to lift and to position the toilet three times, something surreal. The plumber left angry and perplexed with this woman, and he didn’t see any breakdown. I have asked the site to cancel the reservation immediately, because everything has been puzzling and regrettable. I was surprised that Shawn did not have any evaluation on the website when she told me she used much web Airbnb for travel.

Well, of course no future possible host would ever allow me to stay in their apartment after reading this bullshit, so I got back in touch with AirBnB, who had previously been so helpful, and they very unhelpfully said that this (slanderous) review didn’t break any of their rules and that my only recourse would be to reply publicly to this piece of crap and defend myself. In fact, I did have another recourse, which was to delete my AirBnB account.

And AirBnB seemingly doesn’t give a shit.

galicia getaway – santiago de compostela

31 Wednesday Aug 2016

Posted by azahar in culture, friends, getaways, spain, travel, trips

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

friends, galicia, galicia getaway, getaways, santiago de compostela, the kilomeaters, travel, trips

santiago collageSantiago de Compostela is very photogenic, as you can see. You can either click on the collage above to see a bigger version of it, or see the single images below. So many nice memories…
Continue reading →

galicia getaway – solo dining

30 Tuesday Aug 2016

Posted by azahar in food & drink, gastronomy, getaways, restaurants, spain, tapas, travel, trips

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galicia, galicia getaway, gastronomy, santiago de compostela, the kilomeaters

Most of the time I was out on my own in Santiago de Compostela I opted for a couple of complimentary tapas here and there, but I also had some “proper meals” (not tapas) that were very enjoyable. The only problem for me when dining alone is that I am so used to sharing plates – over the years I’ve developed a kind of food ADD and lose interest after the first couple of bites. But these places (like everywhere else I went in Santiago) were recommended by Anna & Jorge @thekilomeaters and, as always, they were spot on.
santiago - altamira

At Cafe de Altamira, across from the market, I opted for the set lunch (13€), which is something I don’t often do, mostly because I don’t “do” desserts, but the two dishes on offer that day sounded so good I decided to go for it. The starter was an unusual take on the traditional Galician empanada, this one made with crispy wonton pastry and filled with baby sardines and sautéed onions. Main course was grilled mackerel with puréed marinated potatoes. I did try the dessert – lemon meringue “pie” in a jar – way too sweet in my opinion (even though I don’t “do” desserts, I can appreciate a good one). But overall it was a lovely lunch and front of house manager and sommelier Alex took excellent care of me.

santiago - hortaThe afternoon I was about to get thrown out of my AirBnB apartment (though I didn’t know it at the time) I stopped by Horta D’Obradoiro for some lunch, and I’m really glad I did. Not only was it an amazing lunch, but it lingered as a pleasant memory when things took an unpleasant turn later on in the day. When I arrived at the restaurant I introduced myself to co-owner Kike (blue shirt) who immediately took me on a tour of the place and then sat me at a very cosy table near a window looking out onto the patio. I tried two dishes, first a playful (and delicious) take on the traditional fritura mixta. This was followed by sous vide pork ribs with bourbon sauce. The latter was so massive that I ended up asking if I could take half of it home with me (I still had a fridge then). Great food at very reasonable prices, and very good service too.
santiago amoaMy last night in town I really just wanted a snack, so stopped in at hipsterish A Moa to try their tapas menu. I started with octopus croquettes, which were super smooth, creamy… and super bland. Couldn’t really taste any pulpo. Then I thought I’d try the zorza, a dish I’d had during my first meal in Santiago. But rather than the subtle “prueba de chorizo” experience I’d enjoyed at Deulpo this just tasted like already cured chorizo that had been taken out of its casing and fried up. Not bad, but well, chorizo. Perhaps the restaurant menu here is more exciting, but at least they did have some tapas on offer.

Overall the food in Santiago was very good. I liked the complimentary tapas, but missed the option of being able to order tapas, rather than larger plates. Next time I will have to visit with a travel (and dining) companion.

galicia getaway – guiri day

25 Thursday Aug 2016

Posted by azahar in food & drink, friends, gastronomy, getaways, holidays, markets, spain, travel, trips

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galicia, galicia getaway, gastronomy, market, santiago de compostela

guiri day (2)One day while Jorge was away filming Gastrópodos Anna suggested we embrace our inner guiri and spend a day, well, being guiris in the city. So we met up not far from the Cathedral and, after a short “tour” of the centre, ended up at the market. Market visits are one of my favourite things to do and the market in Santiago really is something special. And being with Anna, I also learned a lot.

guiri day (1)

Later on we stopped for a light lunch at A Maceta, a modern-style restaurant with a fusiony menu. As most of the dishes were large plates we stuck to a couple of Anna’s fabourites: crispy fried patatas bravas with a lovely spicy sauce, and an Asian take on the classic bocadito de calamares. The perfectly fried chipirones were served in a soft bao bun with citric mayo. Very tasty.

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