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Tag Archives: tapas bars

my top openings in 2025 – bitesize sevilla

15 Monday Dec 2025

Posted by azahar in bitesize sevilla, food & drink, restaurants, sevilla, substack, tapas bars

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bitesize sevilla, restaurants, sevilla, substack, tapas bars

New on Bitesize Sevilla 🍊…  my top Sevilla bar and restaurant openings in 2015. Check them out and if you like it you can give it a “like”, maybe even say hello. And if you really like it please consider becoming a subscriber (free or paid). Hoping to reach 500 subscribers by my first Substack anniversary on January 1st. Thanks!

My Top Sevilla Openings in 2025

hermanos taberneros – bitesize sevilla

17 Friday Oct 2025

Posted by azahar in bitesize sevilla, gastronomy, kofi, sevilla, spain, substack, tapas, tapas bars, writing

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bitesize sevilla, sevilla, substack, tapas, tapas bars

The latest on Bitesize Sevilla 🍊… Hermanos Taberneros – a tale of two brothers (and two of my favourite people). Have a look and if you like it you can give it a “like”. And if you really like it please consider becoming a subscriber (free or paid). Thanks!

Hermanos Taberneros – a tale of two brothers

zombie bars 2.0

30 Tuesday Sep 2025

Posted by azahar in restaurants, sevilla, spain, tapas bars

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restaurants, sevilla, tapas bars

Remember Zombie Bars? In a nutshell these are classic sevillano bars that close for any number of reasons. In some cases they are pushed out by greedy landlords, in others because the owner retires or dies, and then they are snapped up by vulture corporate groups who do a reno job to spiff the place up and reopen using the same name and even pretend they opened when the original bar did… basically pretending to be the same bar, appropriating its history and profiting from a legacy that doesn’t belong to them. I call them Zombie Bars because it looks like the same bar is still alive, but no, it’s an empty shell, dead inside without the heart and soul of the original people who created it.

Anyhoodle… just when you thought THIS COULDN’T GET ANY WORSE… let me introduce you to Zombie Bars 2.0. Recently two brand new tapas bars that were opened by two different corporate groups here (yes two of the same usual suspects) came to my attention because for some reason they had chosen to use the names of long-closed establishments here, ones that clearly have a history and are fondly remembered by people old enough to remember them. The two bars in question had both been long gone by the time I arrived in Sevilla in 1993.

I can’t decide which is worse. But worse still is they are even being lauded by our city council and even our regional government with awards for how they have “saved” our gastronomic heritage. How exactly? By appropriating family histories for their own profit? By turning a once-beloved tapas bar into a tourist attraction? Because their target market is not locals… it’s all about duping tourists into thinking they are having an “authentic” sevillano experience. Spoiler alert… no they aren’t.

Why not? Because you can maybe try to duplicate an ambiance, and even try to use the old recipes… but you have to wonder. WHY are they doing this? Because if you actually go to these places, the “old recipes” don’t have the same spark, the ambiance feels fake and forced, and the service is mostly young kids getting their first job in hospitality who don’t know anything about the bar or the food, or even how to be waiters. Not their fault. They weren’t given proper training.

I’m not about to name and shame here (don’t want a lawsuit on my hands) but if you’d like to see a selection of non-corporate tapas bars and restaurants in Sevilla, have a look here.

emilio

26 Friday Sep 2025

Posted by azahar in friends, sevilla, tapas bars

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friends, sevilla, tapas bars

I’ve known Emilio Vara Dorado forever… well at least as long as I’ve known the fabulous Casa Moreno (approx 2008 when I finally got up the nerve to walk into what looked like an almost exclusive “neighbours only” spot and, even though I was actually a neighbour, I still felt a bit intimidated). I needn’t have worried. I was immediately made to feel welcome and the Morenos and Emilio have been like family ever since.

Anyhow, it’s Emilio’s birthday today and so, as I had to go to my bank nearby, I decided to hobble over and wish him a happy birthday in person. You may remember him from my previous posts about his lovely personalised “napkin art” (ie handwritten bills) I’ve posted here, and also that time he made a special one for my 30th Sevilla Anniversary.

Well it turns out that 2 pm on a Friday afternoon is not the best time to try and get into Casa Moreno, especially not these days since it’s become an instagram phenomenon (queues of tourists are lined up every opening time). But working my “crutch magic” suddenly everyone was letting me pass to get inside. When Emilio saw me he stopped everything and came over to hold my hands and I wished him the happiest of birthdays. Then we had a little argument about who is the more charming person, me or him (obviously HE is, but he insists I am) and then I had to go. Way too crowded.

With more than 35 years behind the bar Emilio IS Casa Moreno, now into its third generation of the Moreno family. And I don’t know… I just love that I know him. And the Morenos. And all of it.

a good day

21 Thursday Aug 2025

Posted by azahar in bitesize sevilla, flamenco, life stuff, sevilla, tapas, tapas tours

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flamenco, sevilla, substack, tapas bars

I almost didn’t go out today but, as I did stay-at-home yesterday, I gave myself a push and ended up so happy that I did. It wasn’t so blisteringly hot, down almost 10 degrees from last week, but I still hopped on the 32 bus for one stop to cut down on painful walking. On my way to the Flamenco Museum (researching an upcoming Bitesize Sevilla article) I was surprised to see Ultramarinos Lucas open. My friend Roger had told me about this place ages ago but every time I passed by it was closed. So of course I had to go in. An ultramarinos is a small grocery store / wine shop where you can often have a glass of something and a snack. So I went in and met Pablo, whose grandfather had started the shop more than 100 years ago. We had a nice long chat and I promised to come back to do a write up. 

In spite of the quick bus ride it was still a bit of a hike to the Museo so we decided to stop off for a quick Beer O’clock at Salmedina along the way. 

At the Museo I met with Carlos to get some help with how to structure my article and while I was there I was hit with such a feeling of… almost like homesickness? I’ve been taking people there on my flamenco & tapas tours for almost 15 years, but of course not since last summer when I started needing crutches to walk. I guess it was a combination of missing both the place and my old life. Anyhow, Carlos was super helpful and I came away with tons of notes, plus he sent me extra info by email.

By then it was lunchtime and, as I hadn’t updated Catalina La Barra in over a year, we headed over there. Even managed to find stuff on the menu I hadn’t tried! And then it was time to hobble home. Got back around 4 pm, took a shower and just felt… so happy. I don’t know, it doesn’t sound like anything special but it really was. Meeting and chatting with different people, feeling purposeful, a nice meal. A good day. 

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