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~ my life in sevilla

casa azahar

Category Archives: sevilla

on my own

03 Tuesday Oct 2017

Posted by azahar in casa azahar, cats, change, home, sevilla, spain

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casa azahar, cats, home, sevilla

A photo of the “office” this morning, with an important difference. Normally Peter’s laptop would be set up on the white table on the right but, at least for this month, he has moved to his own place. We’re still not sure if this will be a temporary situation or a permanent one, but we both agree that it was a necessary one.

Don’t get me wrong. We are still very good friends, and I hope will remain so. But after over 13 years of being flatmates and workmates it was time for a break. I have to admit this was mostly my decision, but I do think it will be a good thing for both of us. I guess I just got to the point where I had forgotten what it was like to just be me at home, and not have another person there, always around, and always reacting to this other presence in my house.

During my last visit to Málaga in August I went through all kinds of emotions when I first got there. I don’t know why, but I was feeling a bit fragile and a couple of times I was even downright panicky. Also sad. But I was also comfortable staying at my friend’s place and visiting my other Málaga friends. The only thing missing were the cats! Then Peter came down for the last two days, staying at a nearby hotel, and suddenly I was “reacting” again to this dynamic we’ve developed over the years, rather than just feeling like myself. And it made me realize that it’s only when I’ve been away that I’ve caught glimpses of another Shawn, either someone I used to be, or someone I could be, and I really wanted a chance to pursue that fleeting feeling. At home. With my cats.

So yesterday I helped Peter move stuff over to his new temporary home. Finding short-term rentals here is almost impossible now due to AirBnB, etc, so whatever happens this place will be temporary as it’s quite expensive. But just for one month it will be fine. And depending on how things go, Peter may come back here in November, or he’ll look for a permanent place of his own.

Right now I don’t really know how I’m feeling. Waking up on my own and feeding the cats, making coffee, turning on the computer… there is both sadness and relief. I can plan my day without having to think about someone else, which maybe sounds selfish, but this is just what I need right now. Maybe a month will be enough of a break for me to feel grounded in myself again, maybe I’ll need a few months, I really don’t know. I do know that if this wasn’t an initial one-month arrangement I don’t think I could bear the sadness. I couldn’t have watched Peter leave with his last batch of clothes last night thinking I’d never see him again. But he’s still around, just over in Santa Cruz, and that’s a comfort.

I’ve actually got a busy day lined up for today, so I’d better get moving. I won’t be posting this on Facebook, which I usually do with my blog posts. I actually seldom use my personal FB, and it was only a year or so ago (maybe?) that I started auto-posting these posts over there. Things have become a bit muddled, as I now have a bunch of “friends” over there, and I’m not sure I want to share this with them all. But this blog has always been where I talk to you guys. So once again, thanks for listening, and for being here. Will let you know how things go – wish me luck! xx

my happy place…

02 Monday Oct 2017

Posted by azahar in food & drink, gastronomy, sevilla, sherry, tapas, tapas bars, tapas tours

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bars, sevilla, tapas

… or at least one of them. This is Rafael’s jamón cutting station at Bar Las Teresas. I’ve been coming to this bar for over 24 years now and, while I have seen some changes over the years (not all of them good), it remains one of the places where I feel relaxed and at home. Like I’m with family.

In fact, this is something I hear a lot from women from other countries – how they feel so comfortable going out to bars on their own here, unlike back home. And it’s true. You don’t feel weird or worry about being hit on. More than likely you’ll end up chatting with the people sitting next to you at the bar, though if you want to just enjoy your tapas and wine on your own, that’s also quite acceptable.

Anyhow, I’ve spent many a happy hour sitting at this very spot, watching Ramón deftly wielding his cutting knife, chatting with the barmen, enjoying lovely tapas. I’m often asked which is my favourite tapas bar in Sevilla, which is an impossible question for me to answer, but this is definitely one of them.

#ilovemyjob

30 Saturday Sep 2017

Posted by azahar in food & drink, sevilla, tapas, tapas bars, tapas tours

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gourmet tapas tour, sevilla, sevilla tapas tours, tapas, tapas tours

Good times on a recent Gourmet Tapas Tour. There is a certain amount of unpredictability and a bit of an extra challenge with the gourmet tours. Actually “gourmet” isn’t really the right term, but I haven’t found a better one. Because it’s not about going to posh places with wanky gastrobar food – it’s about tasting the best of what Sevilla has to offer, from tiny hole-in-the-wall bars to more sophisticated spots (and all family run). Basically people pay as they go, so I don’t have to stay within a budget, and we can go to as many bars as they want. The record (so far) is 7 tapas bars in 5 hours. This one was 5 bars in 5 hours, including a penúltima, with a super fun group of 4 friends – a lovely way to spend a sunny afternoon. I love my job.  🙂

under cover

29 Friday Sep 2017

Posted by azahar in home, sevilla

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awnings, home, sevilla

Back in early September 1993 I came to Sevilla for the first time, taking the bus down from Salamanca, in the naive hope of finding an apartment over the course of one weekend. I was so broke that I stayed in the cheapest of hostels for those two nights, located up a small alley, and spent the days poring over newspaper ads for possible places to live. Armed with a pocketful of change I called landlords from various payphones, only to be told they didn’t rent to foreigners. Finally one person said they could show me a studio apartment next to the cathedral. He was a friend of the owner, who was out of town. Fine. This was my final day in town and I was feeling a bit desparate.

We met that evening in Plaza Salvador and I got my first impressive glimpse of the Cathedral, all lit up (I had been too busy house hunting to do any site seeing). And then I was shown a lovely top floor “atico” studio apartment, with a little terrace and a fabulous view of the Cathedral. Not only was it about three times more than I could afford, there was also the not-so-small matter of a deposit, which I actually didn’t have. This didn’t seem to deter the friend, who took me down to the nearest phone booth to call the owner. Luckily he spoke excellent English so I could explain my situation to him better (after a year in Salamanca I was still far from fluent in Spanish). And to my surprise the owner said “Oh, don’t worry about that. You just come down on the 16th and I’ll be there with the keys”. Thinking back, I’m surprised I just took him at his word as there was no written agreement. Then again, I also can’t believe I thought I could go to Sevilla with no deposit money and somehow secure an apartment in one weekend. But I did, and it all worked out.

What’s that got to do with this photo, you ask? Well, it’s the very first thing that struck me as different on my first day in Sevilla – the awnings stretching across the narrow streets in the centre of town, providing much need shade during the summer months. Somehow I found them completely charming – and still do – and I knew I had chosen the right place to live.

under pressure…

28 Thursday Sep 2017

Posted by azahar in food & drink, sevilla, tapas, tapas bars

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instagram, sevilla, tapas, tapas bars

So the other day Peter @SVQconcierge and I stopped in for a tapa on the way back from Andalucía Sabor and we were very disappointed in the quality of the fish, especially for a place that specializes in salt cod. It was tough and chewy, not nice at all. I mentioned it to the waiter and he said he’d let them know in the kitchen. Meh. We paid and left.

Later I  posted the photo on Instagram, mentioning how disappointing the tapas had been. Next day I got a call from the owner of the bar pleading with me to “modify” the post – he was clearly very upset that I hadn’t spoken to him first, and feared this negative post would affect his business. Well, first of all, the post was in English and the majority of my followers are not locals. Secondly, well, it was my opinion. I don’t often post a negative comment about places, but this experience had annoyed me.

After a second call from the bar owner I decided to just delete the post. It wasn’t worth “modifying” and I didn’t want to be pestered anymore, though afterwards I felt a bit annoyed with myself that I caved. Had it been a Sevilla Tapas review I wouldn’t have changed a word, but I’m still not sure I did the right thing.

Anyhow, after deleting the post the bar owner called me again, thanking me, and saying I would be invited to their next “new menu” tasting. Uh… no thanks.

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