Category Archives: food & drink

friday market in jerez

26 Saturday Jul 2014

Posted by in andalucia, azahartravels, food & drink, spain

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jerez market
Friday was market day in Jerez. I love visiting markets everywhere I go and Jerez is my second favourite market in Andalucía (after Cádiz). We stopped first for some hot crispy churros and industrial strength coffee in the square in front of the market and then strolled around the place for a good hour or so. I don’t know why this market has such a hold on me, but everytime I go there I wish we had a similar market in Sevilla – and there are some very nice ones here! On the other hand, if you took the Jerez market out of Jerez…

After the market visit we did some easy sightseeing around town and had a nice lunch at Ajonegro (a place I had visited before). And then it was time to head back to DREAD HOTEL to pick up our bags and get over to the train station. Given that it’s just an hour’s ride from Sevilla I think I will be doing more Jerez day trips from now on. Have a look at the Azahar Travel blog in the next few days for more detailed accounts of the Jerez Getaway.

sherry tasting marathon

24 Thursday Jul 2014

Posted by in andalucia, azahartravels, food & drink, spain, travel, trips, wine, work

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sherry marathon
Thursday was sherry tasting madness with three bodega tours booked starting at 9.30 am and finishing around 3.30 pm. But unlike the regular tourist tour I did at Gonzalez Byass on Wednesday, these were all private visits, and I felt both honoured and privileged that these very special wineries made me feel so welcome. And talk about educational! I had previously found out that I wasn’t able to get into this September’s Sherry Educator course (though I was promised a place for next year). But this sherry tasting marathon was almost like doing a mini course in a few hours. I just let each person take me through the sherry making process from the beginning, in their own way, and it was very interesting how I learned different things at each place. Each bodega was unique and everyone I spoke to was incredibly passionate about their work. And the wines! Stunning. I will be doing a more indepth report on all this a bit later on Azahar Travels, but I have to say that the more I learn about sherry, the more I realise what a wonderfully complex wine it is. As my friend (and sherry educator) Annie Manson says, you never stop learning about sherry.

Anyhow, I thoroughly enjoyed the day, being treated like a VIP and getting caught up in all the stories and discussions. After the final tasting Peter and I popped over to Bar Arturo, renowned for its no-nonsense décor and fabulous fish and seafood. Absolute fishy heaven. And crazy good tomatoes too.

bar arturo

The three bodegas we visited were: Bodegas Lustau, Bodegas Tradición and Bodegas Urium.

tíopepeville

23 Wednesday Jul 2014

Posted by in andalucia, azahartravels, food & drink, tapas, trips, work

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jerez wednesday
Wednesday in Jerez started off with a bang… just enough time to get from the train station to the hotel to drop off bags before heading over to Bodegas Gonzalez Byass for one of their winery tours. It’s almost ridiculous that I have only got over to the G-B bodega now as I’ve known people there for so long, but there you go. Anyhow, it was quite a show and you are immediately impressed by the size and importance of the place. But it’s not just show as the wines are excellent and – I can’t help it – I adore the iconic Tío Pepe logo.

The hotel which shall not remain nameless – THE BELLAS ARTES HOTEL – was so disappointing I wanted to weep. The first room we were shown was so small, dark and cheerless (and this was after splashing out on their “executive” twin option) that I immediately asked for another room. Well, the next one was even worse, though it did have a window facing the square. Finally I was promised one of their best rooms, with floor-to-ceiling windows and blah blah blah, and it was okay. Barely. Anyhow, will go into this more when I write the official review, but let’s just say I wasn’t happy. And I would’ve changed hotels but the not-so-nice people at Belles Artes said they wouldn’t refund my second night as I’d booked a “special offer”. Fuck. Them.

Likewise our lunchtime tapeo was a bit of a bust. The two places we tried were okay, but nothing special. We did a bit better in the evening, finding a special “ruta” of tabancos and tuna, finishing off at La Cruz Blanca for a last snack. Basically we stayed out until bedtime so that we didn’t have to spend any more time in the hotel room as necessary. Ah well… with three more bodega tours booked for the next day we had that to look forward to.

kidnapped!

23 Monday Jun 2014

Posted by in food & drink, friends, sevilla, tapas, tapas tours

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kidnapped
One of the best things at the end of the day is looking back and thinking “well I never expected THAT to happen!” (unless of course it’s sprained ankles). It started off as a fairly normal day, first meeting my friend Anna @annalibera for a quick tapita, catching her on the last day of a short visit to Sevilla. Then I went off with Saray @SarayPineda to meet a food writer from Texas and welcome her to town, which was basically a favour as Saray said she was a bit nervous about her English (which is very good). So I said I would go with her. Well, we got to the train station and met Ellise Pierce @cowgirlchef, a Texan living in Paris. Ellise had just got off the train from Madrid following a long overnight flight from the US and was pretty zonked. She was also confused to be suddenly greeted by us as she hadn’t been told anything and thought she’d have a couple of hours to find a WiFi connection and catch up on stuff before the official presentation by the people who organised her visit. But no. We sat down to have a chat about Sevilla and then one thing led to another and suddenly we were grabbing a taxi back to the centre of town for an impromptu tapas tour. There was just time for two quick stops, but they were both excellent. One very traditional – Las Teresas – and the other a more modern take on tapas – Vineria San Telmo. Then we bundled a slightly tipsy Ellise into another taxi and sent her back to her meeting. Phew!

Later Ellise sent me an email saying it was the perfect kick-off to her Spain trip – “spontaneous, girly, giggly, and with lots of ham”. And it turns out that she is going to be in Madrid on Saturday, my last day there, so we are planning to meet up. Saray and I have decided that we make a great team. We’re not sure yet how to use these special powers, but once we do world domination won’t be far off. Anyhow, what a great day it was. How was yours?