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Category Archives: holidays

galicia getaway – lugo

27 Saturday Aug 2016

Posted by azahar in day trips, getaways, holidays, restaurants, spain

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

friends, galicia, galicia getaway, lugo, tapas, travel, trips

lugo beerLugo was our destination on my final full day in Galicia, a day trip suggested by Anna and Jorge @thekilomeaters after vetoing my request to go down to Rías Baixas country (home of albariño wines). I was told that this was the worst time of year to visit that area as it is virtually swamped with tourists and I would not get a genuine experience of the place. And well, when given expert advice it is always wise to take it, so off we went to Lugo.

lugoProbably the most distinctive thing about this provincial capital is that the old centre is surrounded by over two kilometres of Roman wall. You can also walk along the top of this wall (which we did) getting some excellent views of the city. Later we walked to the Plaza Mayor and visited the Cathedral. Then it was suddenly Beer O’clock and off we went to quench our thirst and try some complimentary tapas.

lugo complimentarycomplimentary tapas in Lugo

We started off at a very traditional bar Las Cinco Vigas where not only could we choose a complimentary tapa, they also kept passing around a tray of pinchos… you could effectively fill up on these but we had to move on. Next stop was Mesón de Antonio, a classic restaurant. I’m not sure what is normally given out here with your drinks as, thanks to being with Anna & Jorge, we were given the VIP treatment and an array of tasty dishes arrived at our table for us to sample, along with a complimentary bottle of godello wine.

lugo invitation

Mesón de Alberto

We made a couple more tapa stops after this, and along the way met local resident León the cat, who was out for a walk with his flatmate. She had the huge beast out on a harness and leash, which had got tangled up in his front legs, so we stopped to help her de-tangle the gentle giant.

lugo leonLeón and flatmate

It was a lovely day out, soaking up sun and culture and sampling some delicious food and wine. And plans were made for a return Galicia Getaway next May, optimum time for a visit to Rías Baixas. Can’t wait!

galicia getaway – moving day!

26 Friday Aug 2016

Posted by azahar in getaways, holidays, travel, trips, welcome

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

airbnb, galicia, galicia getaway, hotels, travel, trips

moving day-001I fell in love – nay, became slightly obsessed – with the Galician “galerías”, beautiful window-encased balconies at the front of houses, meant to trap the sun (and heat) during winter months. And as luck would have it, I ended up having my very own galería for my last two nights in Santiago.

I had booked an AirBnB apartment for my stay back in June, which I knew was small, but as I wasn’t planning to actually be in the apartment a lot, I thought it would be fine as long as it had good WIFI. Which it did. But after moving in I discovered there were a few problems with the place, the worst of which were that it was not very clean (ick) and that the cheap single bed frame SQUEAKED with every movement, all night long. But hey, it was high season, and there was no way I’d find a last minute option that wouldn’t be double the price, so I decided to stay put and make the best of it.

Then one night I discovered a pool of water around the base of the toilet… wtf? It was leaking every time I flushed it (ewww). A message to the owner had her and the plumber around the next afternoon while I was out… after which they insisted there was nothing wrong, that I must have left the shower door open. WTF?? A second message to the owner had the plumber come back in the evening – and for some reason I was told I had to be there to let him in (really? I was a paying guest on holiday) but I did so and ended up having to deal with a crazy idiot who clearly knew nothing about plumbing and seemed to think it was okay to yell at me. I shall spare you the ugly details about this encounter, but suffice it to say shortly after he left the apartment owner got in touch saying she wanted to cancel out contract. Which meant I would either be out in the street the next day, or else paying through the nose for a hotel for the rest of my stay.

So I went out for a walk. Happily I was in good spirits from having enjoyed one of the best meals of my entire Galician Getaway that afternoon (more on that later) and while I was in one of the bars I’d gone to with Anna and Jorge on our Complimentary Tapas Tour I started seriously looking at my options. Eventually I found a small family run hotel that seemed to have a room free. First I checked with A & J who recommended it for what it was – hey, with a one-star hotel I wasn’t expecting the Ritz, just wanted to know if I should book. But instead of booking online I gave them a call and talked to a lovely woman who sounded like somebody’s grandmother. She informed me that there was a single room available and when I asked her if I could please have a double bed there was a pause, and then she said they could give me a nice double room for one person on the second floor, with windows overlooking the street. Well, I was in! Especially as it was 10.30 pm and I had to be out of my dread AirBnB by 11 am the following morning. So I booked the room, informed Anna & Jorge of my plans, and went home to pack.

Yes, the hotel was double what I was paying for the AirBnB, and the room was a bit “cosy”, but it had great WiFi, a nice firm comfy double bed and … MY OWN GALERÍA!!! Also, some of the nicest people you’d ever want to meet running the place. From the receptionists to the cleaning woman, I felt so welcome and cannot say there were any complaints at all. I also have to say that AirBnB also came through and offered me compensation for my hellish experience, which pretty much covered the extra cost of the hotel, so I was happy. All’s well that ends well.  Especially because I got to spend my final two nights in Santiago de Compostela in one of the best areas of town (in my opinion) AND WITH MY OWN GALERÍA. Happy.

Hotel Fonte de San Roque
Santiago de Compostela

galicia getaway – guiri day

25 Thursday Aug 2016

Posted by azahar in food & drink, friends, gastronomy, getaways, holidays, markets, spain, travel, trips

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Tags

galicia, galicia getaway, gastronomy, market, santiago de compostela

guiri day (2)One day while Jorge was away filming Gastrópodos Anna suggested we embrace our inner guiri and spend a day, well, being guiris in the city. So we met up not far from the Cathedral and, after a short “tour” of the centre, ended up at the market. Market visits are one of my favourite things to do and the market in Santiago really is something special. And being with Anna, I also learned a lot.

guiri day (1)

Later on we stopped for a light lunch at A Maceta, a modern-style restaurant with a fusiony menu. As most of the dishes were large plates we stuck to a couple of Anna’s fabourites: crispy fried patatas bravas with a lovely spicy sauce, and an Asian take on the classic bocadito de calamares. The perfectly fried chipirones were served in a soft bao bun with citric mayo. Very tasty.

galicia getaway – friends & food

22 Monday Aug 2016

Posted by azahar in friends, gastronomy, getaways, holidays, spain, travel, trips

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

friends, galicia getaway, santiago, santiago de compostela, spain, travel

friends and food (2)It seemed I’d been planning this trip for years, or at least ever since my friend Anna @annalibera moved from Sevilla to Galicia with her Gallego partner Jorge @jorgeguitian. Since then they have been working together as food and travel consultants on various gastronomy-related projects, including The KilomEATers @thekilometers. But finally a date was set last June when I impulsively booked a plane ticket and an AirBnB apartment – it was now or never – and my Galicia Getaway was set for August 21-28.

A lot happened between then and August 21st, including an impromptu 10-day trip to London and a shorter unplanned visit to Madrid, so by the time August 21 came along I was actually feeling a bit travelled out. But Galicia was unknown territory for me, and I had never been with Anna and Jorge on their “home turf” in Santiago de Compostela, so when my bags were finally packed I was also full of enthusiasm again.

After picking me up at the airport, Anna and Jorge made a quick stop at my AirBnB place to drop my bags, then – of course – it was off for some lunch. The place they chose for me, Deulpo, couldn’t have been a better introduction to traditional Galician food.

friends and food (1)We had pulpo a feira (natch) and pimientos de padrón (ALL of them fiery hot), both of which I’d tried before, many times. But then we moved on to a couple of new dishes for me: zorza (think “prueba de chorizo” – pork mixed with garlic, smoked pimentón, oregano) and raxo (marinated pork sautéed with garlic). Both were super rich and super delicious. Anna ordered some local wine served in bowls, Galician style, which later fusioned into an Italian custom of dipping bread into the red wine. I loved this spot and went back to it later on my own.

friends and food (3)

That evening I was in for another gastronomical treat – and a homemade one too – when I was invited to Anna & Jorge’s for a traditional dish of Lacón (pork again!), all boiled up together and served with garbanzo beans, grelos, chorizo and potatoes. This was untraditionally washed down with two types of sherry: first a fabulous fino in rama and then a lovely palo cortado. And well, since sherry is so versatile, they were excellent pairings.

friends and foodThat evening Anna also helped with organising my week (we both LOVE lists) and we came up with a good variety of things for me to do, both on my own and with them as my trusty guides (including two day trips) which really made things easier for me. In fact, I would have been lost without them. Can’t stress enough how insider knowledge like this enhances a visit, so do get in touch with the KilomEATers if you are planning a trip to Santiago or pretty much anywhere in Galicia.

galicia getaway

20 Saturday Aug 2016

Posted by azahar in friends, getaways, holidays, sevilla, summer, travel, trips, weather

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

friends, galicia getaway, santiago de compostela, sevilla, travel, trips

weatherI’ve been planning this since June and now it’s just one more sleep until #GaliciaGetaway! It will be my first visit to Santiago de Compostela and I’m really looking forward to it, as well as seeing Anna & Jorge again (on their home turf!). I’ll be arriving in Santiago at midday mañana… looks like it will be quite a bit cooler (and that Thursday might be a good day to stay in). But it will be very different from my recent getaways to London and Madrid. Stay tuned…

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