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Category Archives: tapas bars

debbie love love

15 Wednesday Oct 2025

Posted by azahar in friends, sevilla, social media, tapas, tapas bars

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friends, instagram, sevilla, tapas

So I finally got to spend time with Debbie Love Love! We’ve known each other online for years, and have briefly met up twice at two of our mutual friend Jeanine’s (then) bars, but we never really had a chance to sit down and talk until now. A lunch date was set and it HAD to be at Barra Baja in “our corner” at the bar – by chance both Debbie and I have adopted the end of the bar at BB as “ours”, so this time we shared. 

Debbie’s is in the process of ending one chapter of her life and beginning a new one, closing her business Cookie Love Love after 11 years. She is still unsure about what lies ahead but I am sure she’s going to find her new passion before too long. We had a great time talking non-stop for ages and it was great getting to know each other a bit. 

Anyhow… lunch. You guessed it…

It went on a while, ending with a penúlitima at another favourite place, Bar Rioja La Esquina, where we were joined by Jeanine. A good day. 

super mariano

10 Friday Oct 2025

Posted by azahar in culture, gastronomy, restaurants, sevilla, spain, tapas, tapas bars

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cafeteria donald, restaurants, sevilla, tapas

I’ve known Mariano García for more than 15 years, ever since I started going to his wonderful award-winning Cafetería Donald (which is now just five minutes from my house). I love stopping in, even just for a quick Cold Beer O’clock, and having a chat with everyone. Mariano has lived almost his entire life in this restaurant, which he started working at as a young waiter and eventually took over when the original owner retired. He has since expanded to the space next door opening Bodeguita La Hermandad, with a slightly different concept, but the kitchen is basically the same. What I love about The Donald is that it has remained very much a neighbourhood spot with a classic menu and top quality product. Recently his daughter Conchi has joined the team, so it looks likely to remain a family-run treasure for some time to come.

Mariano is the epitome of a traditional restaurateur, sadly a dying breed, and the walls of his establishment are festooned with various awards and accolades that he has garnered over the years. This week he received not one but two awards: the Premio Tabernero Mayor 2025 at San Sebastián Gastronomika and another at the XIV Gala Premios Tradiciones Sevillanas, recognising his contribution to our local culture and traditions. I’d seen both of these saw pop up on his Instagram so on the way home from my long lunch with the girls yesterday I stopped in and asked to see them. You can see how proud he (rightfully) looks showing them off to me. I also feel proud to know him and to have him as a long-time friend and neighbour. It’s people like Mariano who make my life here so special.

katie & co

06 Monday Oct 2025

Posted by azahar in sevilla, sherry, spain, tapas, tapas bars, tapas tours

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sevilla, sherry, tapas, tapas tour

Remember Katie & Paul? We met back in 2023 when Katie (a twitter/insta pal, that’s her on the right) looked me up while they were in town and we spent a lovely sherry-filled afternoon together. Then they came back in February this year for the first Bowland & Bay Sevilla Getaway and last week we did the second one. And you know what? I think we’re getting good at this! Apparently round three is going to happen in March.

Katie runs her adventure food company Bowland & Bay out of Lancashire UK so if you happen to live near there, or will be in the area, look her up. Below a couple of “after” shots from the Sherry Tour on Friday. On Thursday we did a Market and Tapas tour in Triana (both modified from the usual tours to accommodate a larger group and my limited mobility). A job well done!

zombie bars 2.0

30 Tuesday Sep 2025

Posted by azahar in restaurants, sevilla, spain, tapas bars

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restaurants, sevilla, tapas bars

Remember Zombie Bars? In a nutshell these are classic sevillano bars that close for any number of reasons. In some cases they are pushed out by greedy landlords, in others because the owner retires or dies, and then they are snapped up by vulture corporate groups who do a reno job to spiff the place up and reopen using the same name and even pretend they opened when the original bar did… basically pretending to be the same bar, appropriating its history and profiting from a legacy that doesn’t belong to them. I call them Zombie Bars because it looks like the same bar is still alive, but no, it’s an empty shell, dead inside without the heart and soul of the original people who created it.

Anyhoodle… just when you thought THIS COULDN’T GET ANY WORSE… let me introduce you to Zombie Bars 2.0. Recently two brand new tapas bars that were opened by two different corporate groups here (yes two of the same usual suspects) came to my attention because for some reason they had chosen to use the names of long-closed establishments here, ones that clearly have a history and are fondly remembered by people old enough to remember them. The two bars in question had both been long gone by the time I arrived in Sevilla in 1993.

I can’t decide which is worse. But worse still is they are even being lauded by our city council and even our regional government with awards for how they have “saved” our gastronomic heritage. How exactly? By appropriating family histories for their own profit? By turning a once-beloved tapas bar into a tourist attraction? Because their target market is not locals… it’s all about duping tourists into thinking they are having an “authentic” sevillano experience. Spoiler alert… no they aren’t.

Why not? Because you can maybe try to duplicate an ambiance, and even try to use the old recipes… but you have to wonder. WHY are they doing this? Because if you actually go to these places, the “old recipes” don’t have the same spark, the ambiance feels fake and forced, and the service is mostly young kids getting their first job in hospitality who don’t know anything about the bar or the food, or even how to be waiters. Not their fault. They weren’t given proper training.

I’m not about to name and shame here (don’t want a lawsuit on my hands) but if you’d like to see a selection of non-corporate tapas bars and restaurants in Sevilla, have a look here.

emilio

26 Friday Sep 2025

Posted by azahar in friends, sevilla, tapas bars

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friends, sevilla, tapas bars

I’ve known Emilio Vara Dorado forever… well at least as long as I’ve known the fabulous Casa Moreno (approx 2008 when I finally got up the nerve to walk into what looked like an almost exclusive “neighbours only” spot and, even though I was actually a neighbour, I still felt a bit intimidated). I needn’t have worried. I was immediately made to feel welcome and the Morenos and Emilio have been like family ever since.

Anyhow, it’s Emilio’s birthday today and so, as I had to go to my bank nearby, I decided to hobble over and wish him a happy birthday in person. You may remember him from my previous posts about his lovely personalised “napkin art” (ie handwritten bills) I’ve posted here, and also that time he made a special one for my 30th Sevilla Anniversary.

Well it turns out that 2 pm on a Friday afternoon is not the best time to try and get into Casa Moreno, especially not these days since it’s become an instagram phenomenon (queues of tourists are lined up every opening time). But working my “crutch magic” suddenly everyone was letting me pass to get inside. When Emilio saw me he stopped everything and came over to hold my hands and I wished him the happiest of birthdays. Then we had a little argument about who is the more charming person, me or him (obviously HE is, but he insists I am) and then I had to go. Way too crowded.

With more than 35 years behind the bar Emilio IS Casa Moreno, now into its third generation of the Moreno family. And I don’t know… I just love that I know him. And the Morenos. And all of it.

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