jerez getaway march 2018

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This week I was supposed to be out on an Andalucía Adventure travelling around the white villages with Peter and our friends from Austin Texas Jane & John, but the rainy weather put the kibosh on that plan. Instead we opted for a return to sherry country with a side trip to Cádiz.

After arriving in Jerez and checking into our hotel we made our way to the central market for a quick breakfast of churros, followed by a market visit and a quick sherry at El Pasaje. Then it was time to visit Bodegas Tradición.

As most of you already know, Bodegas Tradición is a unique bodega experience. Not only do they only make VOR and VORS sherries (aside from one fino) but their private art gallery is a joy to behold. Sabrina put out some lovely snacks for us and we sat around chatting and sipping our very special wines. It was actually Tradición’s palo cortado that changed my life all those years ago at a bar in Sevilla, turning me into the sherry-obsessed person sherry professional I am today.

After leaving Tradición we made our way back to the city centre for a penúltima, in order to relax and figure out where to have dinner that evening. That’s when I heard from Rocío from Bodegas Urium and we ended up having an impromptu bodega visit there with the family: father and bodega founder Alonso, and Rocío’s husband Mario. This small family-run biz doesn’t offer public tours, but on occasion they very generously open up their doors to friends, and friends of friends. As always, Alonso was in fine fettle, regaling us with stories while pouring wines from the barrel. I think Jane & John came away from this visit a bit awe-struck, and to be honest, I always do too.

Dinner that night was at one of my favourite places in Jerez, the super traditional Tabanco Las Bandarillas. It’s all home-style cooking there, nothing fancy, but always fabulous. And with super friendly service. Then it was time for bed as we had another special bodega experience planned for the next morning.

verema 2018

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This was the second Verema Wine Experience in Sevilla and, like last year’s, it was held in the splendid event rooms at the Alfonso XIII hotel. But unlike last year’s, out of the 40 or so Spanish bodegas present, there were none from the Marco de Jerez, which seemed a bit strange. Other than that, it was all very well-organised and we got to try several interesting wines before heading to the Cava Masterclass tasting. I think there will be more “cava education” in my future…

birthday boys!

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Yesterday was Peter’s birthday, and it was a big one. So we celebrated the big day by doing … well nothing much. Because Peter was still in the throws of moving house and I had an evening tapas tour and also an afternoon We Love Tapas training session with José. But it turns out that Peter and José share the same birthday, 25 years apart, so here they are having a Birthday Beer together at our meeting.

And so we are going to do Birthday Lunch on Sunday, when there is usually not much else to do, and by then Peter will be settled into his new home. Since moving out of Casa Azahar in October he has stayed at a couple of temporary places, but now he has found a really great permanent apartment near the Feria Market. An ático with two terraces, tons of light, and feels very homey. Looks nice, doesn’t it?

mr & mrs o

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Back in November 2015 I had the pleasure of finally meeting Ana & Simon (aka Mr & Mrs O), and we have stayed in touch since then via Instagram & Twitter, where we first met. So I was really excited to find out they were coming back to Sevilla for a quick weekend getaway, and yesterday I was once again there to meet them when they arrived at their hotel.

The weather was not in our favour, but luckily the RAIN let up for the entire evening. We began our tapeo with starter tapas at the fabulous Becerrita, near the hotel, before making our way to La Sal in barrio Santa Cruz for Almadraba red tuna. Then somehow it was suddenly a good idea to have more jamón for “dessert” at Las Teresas along with crisp, dry manzanilla sherry, and we finished with a sweet sherry nightcap at Vineria San Telmo.

Aside from the great food and wine we shared, we also shared plenty of stories and laughed a lot… the time just flew by. Can’t wait to do it all again. xx

tapas at Becerrita

almadraba tuna at La Sal